As we explored further, we were reminded of the quayside in King's Lynn and at the same time the Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich; beautiful old brick buildings steeped in history.
Our exploration took us up a flight of steps and to Devil's Point where we were treated to a view along the land to more of Plymouth, its red and white striped lighthouse in the distance, across the water to Cornwall, and out to the sea beyond. More steps led us down to the water's edge, where we stayed a while, admiring how clear the water was.
Check-in and a food shop called, so we headed back the way we'd come to the car.
After an afternoon of escapism, Tesco and its masked shoppers was a bit of a bump back to reality, so we tried to be as efficient as we could and hurried back to our accommodation to pack a picnic for an evening on the beach.
Mothecombe Beach was only a short drive (and a slightly longer walk across a field and through woodland) away, so we arrived just in time to enjoy a sunset while we paddled and played in the sea. Only a few other small groups and couples were dotted along the sand, leaving us mad tourists to the cool evening water. It was the perfect spot to end our first day.
The wonders of Instagram had connected me with a couple of Devon-based accounts (and the lovely ladies behind them), so we were armed with an extensive list of recommendations to work through during our stay.
A day in Salcombe was the first of these recommendations, so with a view to being somewhere central, we aimed for the North Sands.
Not quite as keen as the watersport-ers already pitched up on the limited stretch of sand and rock in the bay, we were met with a full car park. Fortunately, an unmade track was only a little further away so it was here under the shade of trees that we parked up for the day.
Did a 'sweep browse' of the beach to establish that it was indeed too busy for us to find a socially distanced spot to sit, even for a little while.
Right on the sea front was another recommendation, this one of the food variety. The Winking Prawn was open, so this time we beat the crowds and grabbed a table for an early lunch and a spot of people watching. We won't dwell on the fact that I had to abandon the remnants of my crab sandwich and Sam her Po Boy when the wasps became rather too persistent.. It was another lovely spot, and really well organised in light of the current situation.
Only with a slightly quicker pace on account of the wasps, we set off up the road to spend some time in the main town. As we ascended, we were met with stunning views of the water below which could have been tropical from a distance, and admired beautifully planted gardens and ancient trees on either side of the road.
Painted footprints appeared on the pavement as we came into the town, leading us along a one-way system which in turn led us straight into an ice cream parlour. Quite a strange experience in a mask; I did go to lick the drips as my ice cream was passed to be over the counter, but fortunately registered just in time to avoid a sticky mess! Followed the road (and footprints) round and found a quiet spot overlooking the marina to enjoy our ice creams (luckily no wasps this time).
Legs well rested, we decided to venture a little further before walking back down to North Sands and beyond this time in the other direction.
The beach at South Sands felt a little more spacious, and there was lots of room on the sea wall so it was there that we set up camp for a while so that Jess and Sam could brave the sea again.
Suitably rested once more, we continued along the road to where the coast path became an actual path at Bolt Head. Yet more stunning views greeted us the further we climbed, this time against the green and grey of rugged rock face and not obstructed by any high garden walls.
Definitely somewhere I'd love to come back to, the temptation to just keep going was overwhelming, but eventually we tore ourselves away and made our way back to the car and in search what us Norfolk gals consider a 'proper beach' before home.
Bantham Beach was just what we needed and a very welcome spot after the trauma of fairly heavy traffic on the only single-track country lane leading down to it. We rested, paddled some more, and admired the beginnings of a sunset over Burgh Island in the distance (cue Ben Howard).
Tore ourselves away from the coast for a day and ventured into Dartmoor. First stop was Bellever Forest.
Slightly horrified by the crowds when we arrived, we soon discovered that it looked worse than it was and found ourselves the perfect picnic spot by the river with a clear view over to the other side. I've often been the only person, or part of the only group without a dog, but it was slightly amusing to find that here we were the only group without a child (or six).
Picnic stuffs packed back in the car, we headed off for one of the circular walks outlined on the map in the car park. It was only as we hit bog and no way to get around it that we realised we weren't following the map at all, and had instead taken a rather impressive detour.
Not deterred, we re-traced our steps back along the river where we'd had lots of fun on our detour hopping between stepping stones. We were soon back on the right track and did a simple circuit of the woodland which brought us back to the car ready for our second stop of the day.
Really, the clue should have been in the name, but as we approached Foggintor Quarry, we were surprised to be leaving heat and sunshine behind. Instead, it was all change into all of our layers as we set off on our next walk and into the mist..
Although we were joined on the footpath to the Quarry by quite a few others (all attired in a variety of ways from summer shorts and sandals to full-on hiking gear), we soon lost them as other footpaths became available for investigating and the mist descended, veiling us all in a thick shroud. I think the words 'atmospheric', 'dramatic', and 'eerie' were used. It was a fascinating landscape, and had we been braver we may have explored further but ultimately, I think we all felt the same 'rather them than me' towards campers at the base of the rocks.
Aygo, by Toyota, might have sponsored T4, but according to the mechanic who checked it over at the garage the following day, it's not meant for rally driving.. a funny smell put paid to our adventure for one day so after a hearty pub meal, we headed back to our apartment for dessert, bubbles, and a game of Kodama.
The final day of our trip began in the yoga garden where we were staying. An outdoor yoga class was just what we all needed, and we then floated back into Plymouth for one last day of exploration.
Fortunately, yoga had helped us work up an appetite, so we all demolished an early 'afternoon tea' of sweet treats, finger sandwiches and scones (the Devonshire way) washed down with several pots of tea.
From the Tudor Rose Tearooms, we walked along the seafront to Plymouth Hoe where we went down and up and down and up again, admiring beachy architecture and wishing we lived closer to the sea. Hung around the lighthouse a while waiting for crowds to disperse in hopes of the perfect photo op. Then from the lighthouse, we walked on past the lido and in search of a ferry to take us over the border and into Cornwall.
We'd spotted the Cremyll Ferry going back and forth on our first day in Plymouth and the Royal William Yard. Only £4 for a return trip, we decided it was a must for an afternoon adventure before fish and chips and the journey home.
8 minutes of getting blown about on the open deck was just as fun as it sounds! On the other side, we sat a while at the Edgcumbe Arms overlooking the water. Enjoyed our drinks and chuckled (quietly, and to ourselves, obviously) at fellow punters' trying to fend off young seagulls eager to sample some of whatever pub grub they had ordered..
With what little time we had left before the next ferry was due to depart, we walked through some of the gardens at Mount Edgcumbe House to Barn Pool Beach. Here, we tried (and failed) to remember how to skim stones.
Time almost up on our car parking, we just managed to squeeze in a fish and chip (and mushy pea) tea which we ended up eating in the car ready to put pedal to the metal at the first signs of a ticket inspector.
I know we would have all happily stayed another four days and then some. A few days in Devon was exactly what we all needed; the perfect balance of escapism, adventure, headspace, and fun. I can't wait to be back one day ♡
