Up so early that our bodies and brains took some while to function in sync, we were straight up and out to the prom deck to catch our first glimpse of Norway, and to witness our sail into Stavanger. Keen beans, we were pretty much first in for breakfast, and pretty much first to disembark when the ship docked.
Docked right below the Old Town, we decided to begin our exploring there before it got too busy. Roses, Hollyhocks, and Hydrangeas in bloom against white-washed wood-panelled houses from the 18th Century made for a very pretty scene as we wandered along cobbled streets. Was particularly happy to find a couple of friendly cats enjoying the sun which was starting to appear from behind the clouds.
Our first hour or two was mostly spent getting our bearings, and figuring out what was about. We did a little loop through the Old Town, around the harbour with its tourist boats, a fellow cruise ship, and jellyfish floating on the surface, past the cathedral, and along the edge of a lake in the City Park.
Coming out of the park, I got far too excited when I spied Søstrene Grene on the corner of a road a little way over. Took a leisurely browse; all the while enjoying a bit of Mozart. As is always the way, I wanted to take everything home, but my self-control (and Steven's. In fact, mostly Steven's) kicked in, so all we left with were some placemats... as you do! Had a proud Norfolk moment at the till when we discovered that they were selling Gnaw chocolate!
From Søstrene Grene, we continued along the edge of the lake then took some steps uphill again towards more old looking buildings which stood alongside contrasting big, beautiful brutalist buildings. Sat a while on a bench at the top of the steps to admire the view, and the change we'd received from our shopping; coins with holes are far too exciting!
Back in the Old Town, the sun now shone brightly, so I made Steven re-trace some of our steps (not all of them) in the hope of sunny photo opportunities. Downhill again, we were soon back at the harbour. Following further along the front this time, we found lots of fantastic street art and a skate / play area created from old buoys and other bits of nautical paraphernalia.
Before our trip, seasoned cruisers Ma and Pa had provided us with a map of each port of call with a few bits circled and highlighted. Having been so lucky with the weather, we didn't entirely feel the need for museum visits, but decided to take a walk out into a suburb-y bit of the city to investigate a couple of buildings further afield.
By Ledaal, once residence of the King of Norway, Steven spotted a cemetery where we wandered to find some Commonwealth War Graves. Wending our way back towards the centre, we were met by a view of mountains in the distance with a long modern bridge at their base which cars were crossing to reach the city. Found a café for lunch which seemed popular with locals and had a playlist of which we both approved. Splashed out on a pizza to share (very Norwegian), and two local beers which at about £9 each (not even a pint), we savoured!
Fearing that we might be left behind, we allowed plenty of time to embark the ship once more where we grabbed a seat on the prom to enjoy our sail away.
6am on the prom for our sail in to Flåm through fjords. Totally worth it! Stayed to watch us dock before disappearing back inside for showers and breakfast.
Thanks to Ma & Pa's map, we had a few different walks lined up, we decided to first make a visit to Flåm Church, a 3km walk from Flåm itself. Followed along a road with the river to our right, and trainline to our left. Upon reaching the church, we sat a while outside on a bench. Sun shining by this point, we were fairly warm.
Our walk back to the port took a slight detour via a walk (perhaps a hike, at this point) up to a waterfall. Were grateful for stone steps leading up most of the trail, and even more grateful for the view which made the climb so very worth it! Coming down was made a little more challenging by the step-free slippery bits. We were both suffering from serious jelly legs at the bottom.
Now on the other side of the river, we passed a field of Norwegian Highland Cows with their calves, who proved very popular with fellow tourists as we stood to watch them.
All of this achieved before midday, we decided that we deserved some refreshment. Had passed a brewery on our first walk of the morning, so when we found a 'Viking Pub' serving a taster selection of their beers, our stop was chosen. Sat upstairs to enjoy our beers with lunch; I had the biggest salad of my life with strawberries, blueberries, nuts, seeds, beetroot, tomatoes, and an entire goats cheese all dressed with a 'beer syrup', while Steven chose 'Loki's Lunch', an open sandwich named after the infamous God of Mischief, topped with sausage and a lot of cheese.
Full of food and beer, we went for our final (and thankfully shortest) walk of the day, up to another viewing point, lower this time, across the fjord. Next stop, Olden, we sat again on the prom, mesmerised by passing landscape, eventually torn away by the need to get ready for dinner.
Not quite such an early start, we were up on the prom this time around 7:45am for our sail into Olden. Lots of little houses dotted the hillside, and farmland sat between pine forest. More low-lying cloud added to the atmosphere as we sat and enjoyed our morning cup of tea.
Off the ship a little after 9, again in the hope of beating the crowds, we were in for another day of walking. Chose to start off with another old church, and a 'new old church', too. Half an eye on the surrounding scenery, half an eye on lorries and coaches thundering past (anyone would think that these roads weren't designed for walkers..), we admired farm buildings set against mountains and blue sky peeping out through cloud.
Popped into the first church which was entirely wooden with antler-style hat stands at the end of each pew on the men's side of the church, family names engraved on pew doors, and a rather odd photo of a group of men dressed like gnomes (transpired that they were the church choir). We'd just beaten the 'crowd', and an influx of people arrived as we left in search of the next church.
Got slightly side-tracked by the appearance below the road of a fast-flowing river with salmon fishing bridges accessible to walk over. Obviously we had to investigate, and spent ages walking along and over the river, then eventually back the way we'd come when we felt threatened by over-grown nettles blocking our path to the next bridge.
Headed back up to the road to continue our walk, and soon came across the new old church. Were slightly concerned when we spied a tour bus in the carpark, but fortunately had arrived just as the tour were leaving, so soon had peace and quite, and clear shots for photos.
On we walked along the road, following the path of the river until we came to more tour buses parked up by a more substantial bridge crossing the river at a particularly fast-flowing point. Hoards were on the bridge, but we hoped that they'd soon be moving on to their next stop, so we waited it out on a bench nearby. Everyone loaded back onto their buses, it was just us left. Stayed a while admiring the rush of water below.
As we crossed the bridge, we were then led by a path into fields where it got a bit muddy as we made our way past cows (not Highland, this time), more farm buildings, the occasional end of a waterfall, and another bridge which we didn't cross this time, but stood on for a while for another view along the river. Our circular walk led us back to the ship, so we decided to embark for lunch to fuel us for a second, shorter walk (so we thought) in the afternoon.
Heading in the opposite direction to where we'd been in the morning as we disembarked, we walked again along the road, this time passing more residential buildings. The road soon split, and we took the one leading uphill. With more roads to choose from, our map reading was tested further this time, and it wasn't until we bumped into a couple who we'd met walking up to the waterfall the previous day, that we were satisfied that we were going the 'right way'.
Walked and talked our way up, up, and up some more where the road became dirt track, and led us through some forest. Of course we were thrilled by the stunning views across the fjord from such a height, and made plenty of stops for photos before wending our way back down again, and to the ship which we had seen from the top. Signposts led us a slightly zig-zagged route back, but having relaxed in the knowledge that we weren't lost, we also weren't in a rush by this point, and enjoyed our walking.
Opting this time to make for the sun deck where we were greeted by a view across the village and into the mountains beyond, we were treated to our first musical farewell from the shore. Four speakers packed a punch as they sang out 'we are sailing', and 'time to say goodbye', all the while accompanied by a couple of older ladies waving the Norwegian flag, and even one person right at the top of the mountain brandishing the St George's Flag in our honour. It was quite the spectacle, and had us laughing, smiling, and singing along as we sailed away.
Our final day on land was spent in the
city of Bergen, where, like Flåm, I had visited as a young teenager.
Unfortunately due to bad weather forecast back home, we only had until midday
to explore, so it was rather a fleeting visit.
Docked at 7am, we were off the ship by
20 past (we're like different people when we're abroad), and headed straight to
the Funicular Railway for a ride up to Mount Fløyen. Was such a peaceful
spot for looking over the city as it was waking up. Wandered a little at the
top where there were goats, sheep, and a small lake. With more time, there were
bikes to hire and hiking trails, and we might have even walked back down to the
bottom, but instead we took the train once more and walked back into the city.
Our whistle-stop tour took us around some of the harbour, through the
fish market, past lots more street art, and to a little café called Sweet Rain
where we enjoyed drinks and lots of little pastries and biscuits to
nibble.
Even more paranoid about missing the ship here than we had been at other
ports, we were back on board about an hour before we were due to sail, and took
once more to the sun deck to enjoy the rays that were now appearing, and to
look back over the city.
Definitely made the most of the sail out of Bergen, with lots more time
before we'd need to head in or miss food. Highlights included sailing under a
suspension bridge, and lots of small islands with beach-hut style buildings
right on the water's edge each with their own jetty and little boat. Sunshine
made for a pleasant sit outside, and we stayed as long as we could taking it
all in.
Returning to Norway after over a decade, it certainly didn't disappoint.
We were spoilt by such beautiful weather for our visits to such beautiful
places. We'll definitely be back, and hopefully before another decade is out.
😊
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