Riviera Style & Hidden gems in the City

Today has been a busy day! BBC Weather informed me that it would be rainy so I figured it was the right time for a museum trip. So far this summer, I've been avoiding them like the plague, secure in the knowledge that they will be heaving with tourists and - heaven forbid - children! I figured the Fashion & Textile Museum would be less popular with those categories though, so I braved it.

So keen to beat the crowds, I arrived before the museum even opened. I waited in Southerden (still not entirely sure how it should be pronounced), a quirky patisserie & café opposite. My Earl Grey tea was served in the most unusual pot, more akin to a cafetiere than a teapot and although this amused me, I must say I wasn't impressed by the taste of 'Joe's Tea Co.'; I think coffee must be their thing (it was Bermondsey Street after all).

By the time I'd drunk my tea, it was almost 10 past 11 so at least I didn't look like an eager puppy at the door ready for opening! There were already a few people milling about but not so many that I was put off going in. I paid my £8.80 (I think. The lady made a mistake with the card machine, thought it went through twice so gave me a refund. It's quite possible that I made an inadvertently free visit to the museum today) and received the sweetest ticket (it's the little things) for my entry. 

The exhibition was of Riviera style, right through from the 1920's to the modern day. I'm rubbish at voicing an educated opinion on these things, but there was plenty for the eye to behold. I particularly admired the way the ground floor had been laid out to look like a Lido and I always really love old rail posters which in this instance were of course advertising various seaside resorts both at home and abroad. 

A well curated, incredibly aesthetic exhibition, I really enjoyed my morning's pootle. I was, I admit, a little disappointed at the size of the collection but the gift shop at the end kept me plenty entertained for another quarter of an hour. And hey, if I got free entry then who am I to complain? 

Having expected my museum visit to fill a little more of my day, I wasn't quite sure what to do next. So I took to my To Do list and Google Maps to ascertain how far away I was from various locations. I discovered that the Red Cross Gardens were only a 13 minute walk away (oh yes, I love to be precise) so that's where I went next seeing as BBC Weather seemed to have been mistaken thus far... 

En route to the Red Cross Gardens, I passed another garden which I initially thought was the one I was looking for but was then grateful that it was not. Crossbones Garden looked a little creepy to me. When I eventually reached the gardens I was in search of, I was much happier to find beautiful beds full of colour, a pond teeming with lily pads and plenty of benches to rest on, one near a fountain which is where I decided I'd park myself. 

Major proud moment - I finished my book! Wahooey! Turns out a little rain (ok, BBC Weather was right) doesn't put my British self off sitting in a quiet outdoor space and reading, even when raindrops start to appear on the pages. I'm not scared. I was slightly scared though of the 'community gardener' who was having some issues with a water source for his hose. By some form of a miracle he sprayed it literally either side of me but I came out unscathed. Unlike him, who had clearly used his entire body to block the path of the uncontrollable water as when he emerged from the bushes, he was drenched. One debacle over, he then proceeded to prune low growing plants and when I looked up again I was faced with an entire bottom. I think maybe my finishing my book might have had something to do with my want to look anywhere but up!

When an over-friendly homeless man started inviting unsuspecting office workers to share a drink with him while they ate their lunch, I decided it was probably time to move on. An eventful half an hour to say the least!

Another destination on the To Do list that I knew wasn't far was St Dunstan in the East, a Wren church tower and its ruins by Monument. I can't remember where I first read about the church but it's been on my radar for a while. I walked via a Pret a Manger for my favourite chicken & avocado sandwich and an iced peach green tea as I figured this was going to be the kind of spot one lunches at.

I was right. It was like I'd walked into an outdoor office cafeteria. I was met with the surreal but beautiful sight of suited and booted types sharing benches to enjoy their lunch, the newspaper, a 'book' on their Kindle (or a real one to be fair to some) or just some space away from work. It was busy but quiet as most people were there without a companion. Again, it tried to rain, but in true British form we all continued to sit there regardless. I loved it and I decided I shall return on a Sunday, or better still, a cold, rainy day. It was incredibly photogenic!

With the tube strike this evening looming over me, I knew I wanted to be home before TfL had advised the trains would be getting busy, but it was still only around 2 o'clock when I left St Dunstan in the East so I wasn't done with the day.  

Where do I go when I'm 'in the area'? Well, Barbican of course. I'm not even entirely sure why. I'm just drawn to it. It's definitely one of my favourite places in London, if not my actual favourite! So I walked the distance to Barbican for another cup of tea (loose peppermint this time), a nosey in the gift shop and to pay a visit to the music shop nearby which is almost always closed whenever I go past.

My tea was still hot while I was in there and I felt awfully guilty carrying it in one hand, my other occupied by my handbag and purchases from the Fashion & Textile Museum, so I asked a shop assistant if there was somewhere I could put it (noticing on the side their own cafetiere and coffee cups) while I browsed. He willingly took it from me... then just held it!? I tried to take it back from him, feeling rather too important, but he refused and said he wasn't doing much else. I then continued to feel guilty (probably worse at this point), especially when I didn't end up buying anything. 

Tea retrieved, I wandered on until I came to Lamb's Passage. I couldn't remember what was down there, but I knew it was somewhere I'd read about in my Quiet London book so I thought I'd investigate on my way to the station and home. I was slightly unnerved when the road suddenly started to feel like a dead end but then I rounded a corner and realised that it did go on. A little way ahead I spotted greenery protruding through a fence and knew I must have happened upon a place of interest. 

It was a tiny garden in memory of Basil Hume (a monk who became the Archbishop of Wesminster in the 70's. I had no idea until I got home and looked him up). So I sat with my tea on a bench sheltered by vines, admiring the mix of what can only be described as very 'Zen' plants and feeling a bit sneaky in the knowledge that there were plenty of people dashing past who had no idea of my existence but who I could see and hear all too clearly. Another incredibly surreal spot.

So turns out I managed to cover a lot of ground today and the list is being gradually worked through. Still holding out for actual sunshine so my poor legs can stop looking so out of place but I'm grateful for now to be finding so much to do whatever the weather!

London detours

Before yet another weekend in Norwich steals the limelight, I thought I'd better catch up on a few recent excursions (one of which came out of buying a new notebook for my writing, so I really have no excuse)!

I finally found Barbican Conservatory! And, oh my goodness, what a magical place! A tropical plant paradise where vines and endless greenery creeps across pipes and spills over balconies, completely transforming the already beautiful concrete jungle. I could have stayed forever (and I'll definitely be back)! I still cannot get over the fact that such a treasure is completely free (cynic in me says it won't be forever)!

Bank Holiday Monday in general was a beautiful day! I realised that to avoid the masses in London (and this is going to seem obvious), head in the opposite direction! To be fair, I started off at the Tower of London for the 62-round gun salute to mark the royal birth, but that was a good sort of busy! From there I then walked to Barbican through deserted streets; bliss! Very few people are aware of the Conservatory. Certainly no one I've spoken to had heard of it (alas, now I've given the game away...) so once I reached it, I was glad to find stillness and peace!

From a relaxing Bank Holiday weekend to an equally lovely weekend just gone. On Friday night I ventured into Putney where we found a very sweet, Norwich-esque bar-restaurant. Great food, Earl Grey gin (!) and a sign stating 'no hipsters allowed', I was in love! I hope to return to Putney to explore a little more on sunny days and warm evenings!

A leisurely dog walk on Saturday morning, then I took myself on a slight (huge) detour on the way home...

In need of a new notebook (my previous two have been wasted on 'To Do' lists which I've decided is sacrilege and will not happen again!), I stopped off at Muji at Sloane Square. Having perused stationery and random bits for the bathroom, I suddenly had an urge to take photos so I headed off to find London's answer to the Flatiron building which I'd once passed but been unable to catch a good angle of. Turns out it wasn't anywhere near Sloane Square so I wandered for more than a while...

On my way I did pass some beautiful buildings though, so I was more than content, especially as the sun was shining!

Found it!

Sunday morning, this happened... say no more. (Well, I probably should say though that I ran with fellow teachers and children from our school in the School's Challenge so I didn't actually do the whole race, despite what the medal says!)

It did actually instil in me a much greater respect for runners, I admit.

Now the weather is improving I am finally venturing out lots more again and falling back in love with the city! Half term has arrived then it's just 7 and a half weeks until a summer of nothingness; bring it on!

One woman's struggle with a train window

'Escaped to the country' for a spot of Christmas shopping when the mere thought of attempting it in London gave me severe palpatations.

I haven't visited Cambridge in such a long time, and I missed it. Just under 50 minutes on the train (and only 20 from my front door - train (I timed it, because I was late as ever)), I figured I could spend just as long travelling to various shopping areas in the capital, so a spontaneous decision was made!

Even more spontaneously, I text mother on the off chance that her and dad weren't already headed for an incredibly busy weekend, only to discover that their Saturday was also clear of any social events, so we arranged to meet!

After my panicking that I was going to be the last person to set foot on the train, probably as the doors were closing, despite waking at an unearthly time on a Saturday, I actually made it in good enough time to walk allll the way to the front so that I'd have less walking to do at the other end (genius).

The journey was beautiful; forgotten music from the depths of my SoundCloud in my ears, magical colours in the sky and a distant mist making for a very pretty vista. Directly opposite me sat a woman beneath an open window which shewas trying desperately to close to no avail, to my left (I sit sideways on trains; naughty) two suited men discussing photo shoots and football, and on the 4 seats in front of me, a middle aged lady with a foul mouth and a lacy jumper I'd probably wear too if I were 20 years older.

I arrived only fifteen minutes later than mum and dad, but already they had gone ahead and found a place for a hot drink. So I joined them, and we said our hellos, caught up on important events from the past week or so, and decided on a plan of action for the day!

Admittedly, on my last Christmas shopping excursion, I left feeling a strong sense of alliance to Norwich. I feel as if I might have actually written about it a year or two ago! I decided that Cambridge did not feel quite as festive as it should, and that the lack of independent shops made finding small and unique gifts quite difficult. 

Nevertheless, it felt so good to be back in the city; it's definitely still one of my favourites, at any time of year! I walked through all the little back-streets to meet mum and dad, admiring unusual door knockers along the rows and rows of cute terraced houses. No twinkling lights on trees in windows yet, but a wintry chill in the air still had me feeling festive.

A second mug of Earl Grey to kick-start me again after my early start and hypnotic train journey, and we were off! One thing Cambridge certainly is equipped with is an abundance of Charity shops. So while mum and I were actually managing a 'sweep browse' of Primark, dad was browsing in charity shops along the road. When we reconvened, he produced a Moomin book to add to the collection; I do adore Tove Jansson! This might even mean I actually get around to doing some reading over Christmas (I doubt I'll get beyond children's literature, but it's a start at least?)!

It's not usually necessary to spend much time at the Grafton Centre end of Cambridge, but we lost ourselves in Hawkin's Bazaar for a good amount of time; me dropping almost everything I touched, mum making cringe-worthy jokes about her purchases to the shop assistant and dad trying his hardest to pretend he wasn't with us (not really, we're all as bad as each other)! Playtime over, we popped in and out of a few more shops via biscotti and olive tasting before making our way to the city centre.

One huge advantage Cambridge does have over Norwich is Fopp. Fopp! I love Fopp! In fact, I could spend a lifetime in Fopp. On this occasion I had a time restriction in the form of our lunchtime reservation, but I still managed to make three film purchases. A notorious film novice, I have recently been expanding my film horizons, and Fopp is a place I like to buy the ones that jump off the shelf at me (sometimes literally) because they're often only £3, so even if I discover they're not for me, I've not even spent the price of a cinema ticket! Elf, I'm sure will be watched within a matter of days, but I think I'll save the other two for more dedicated film-watching time.

Once upon a time there was a Christmas hat impaled on that chimney.

Lunch was at Pizza Express, in the most fancy Pizza Express I have ever set foot in! Set in the historic building of Pitt Club, this restaurant did not even have signage outside, so it was very quiet indeed. There was no piped music, the floors were carpeted and books and black and white photographs of club members lined the wooden panelled walls. We all said as we sat there that we could quite easily forget where we were (and on a side note, the Christmas menu looks amazing)!

After lunch, we wandered along the most historic part of Cambridge, past the different college buildings which looked particularly glorious in the winter sun! Another point to Cambridge comes in the form of Heffer's bookshop, where mum and dad lost me in the children's section as I spent Christmas money on a plethora of picture books (perhaps for school, perhaps for my own reading pleasure).

We definitely picked the right end of the day to be in the area, as the setting sun behind the buildings made for a very beautiful skyline above the market. Before I knew it, it was time to head back. Of course we stopped for a final tea along the way, and to give me chance to sort my mass of shopping bags. Absolute saints that they are, my parents took most of my purchases home with them to avoid me having to take them on a million train journeys back and forth between Cambridge, London and Norfolk. So I left with two small bags; my DVDs, school milk bottles with paper straws for future cocktail drinking, my Moomin book and a Christmas present to pass along.

Despite knowing that I'll always see them again relatively soon, saying goodbye to my parents is always sad, and I don't know why but saying goodbye at train stations always seems that little bit more moving. Films have dictated that time will pass in slow motion, and tears will be shed (they weren't, but you get the scene I'm setting). A fond farewell said to Cambridge, mum and dad, I headed back to the Big Smoke for an evening in the cinema with my dear cousin; I just never stop!

A park/green space a Sunday/weekend keeps the doctor away

Woke up with what appeared to be the beginnings of a cold (dread, oh dread) this morning! However, after a mug of Twinings Defence Tea (I know, shocking that I would abandon my Earl Grey kick-start... I had one shortly afterwards, panic not) I felt quite alive!

12 days into the New Year; so far, so good. Had a highly productive morning after what can only be described as the most surreal week. No tube or heating on Monday, hospitalised children on Thursday morning and afternoon, a bandaged kitten and time off work on Friday, and yet seemingly a positive and productive week, so this morning was really a natural progression!

Adhering (of course) to my New Year Resolutions, I have managed to make and eat sandwiches for lunch every day this week and have then eaten substantial food in the evenings too – impressive! I have then made this weekend a ‘real Laura time’ weekend, as a sort of reward for being so good during the week (is that really very sad?).

Saturday was spent in Norwich where I was blessed with glorious weather once again! Determined as always to fit as much in as possible so as to make my visit entirely worthwhile, I first took a detour into town from the train station along the river and through the Cathedral close. For lunch I paid a visit to my favourite Fish & Chip shop (I refer of course to the Grosvenor Fish Bar) to sit on a wall on St Gregory’s Green for a spot of people watching and ‘Big Mack’ eating. I then headed to The Egg for hairdressing – after years of suffering in a hate-hate relationship with my hair, I finally landed myself with a style I can almost deal with, and a good hairdresser is like gold dust, so trips to The Egg form the reason for my Norwich visits! As well as providing good hairdressing, they conveniently provide a good excuse to visit my home from home from home; can’t complain!

Interestingly/bizarrely, I always seem home with more shopping bags from Norwich than I do from any days spent in London. The convenience of shops in Norwich and my familiarity with them makes for far too accessible shopping opportunities! After storming around the shops to cram in as much as possible, I settled down for what Norwich is best for, tea with a friend.

Owing to my absence on Saturday, I knew that today had to be highly productive. In my experience, this can be a rather large risk, as I always find that when I really really need motivation and energy, distraction and procrastination rear their ugly heads, and my day is spent browsing SoundCloud, Youtube and Spotify (instead, I spent the entirety of the London – Norwich part of my journey partaking in SoundCloud browsing, causing my phone battery to die in the other direction. I was actually extremely impressed as it did make it as far as Stratford before giving up on me!). Somehow this weekend, I have managed a healthy balance of both of those things, which leads me on to the true ‘real Laura time’ nature of this weekend.

Today, I made the decision that at some point, I was going out for a walk. This meant that a, b, and c had to be done first. So they were. There are a good selection of sizeable green spaces in my part of London, and having already discovered and enjoyed a few, I decided to venture to pastures new today. Armed with Google maps in my ear so I could march along through shadier parts (or rather hurdle my way across an unhealthy amount of dog mess piles) looking like I knew exactly where I was going, I headed for Downhills Park. The perfect combination of cultivation, sport and recreation, play structures, wooded areas and an open common (not forgetting the toilet ‘for ‘everybodies’ convenience’), it was a very pleasant place for a stroll. Perhaps I may change my mind or find a better location, but I could almost picture it in the summer, a potentially ideal spot for outdoor productivity!

A surviving scattering of pink amongst the greenery

Although the Google maps lady kept interjecting, my ears were also filled with new music that I have finally given myself the opportunity to discover this weekend! Although my initial plan was to take work to do on the train, at this end of the weekend I'm feeling very glad that I allowed myself the down time.

Just feeling very positive really - keep it up 2014.

Café Crawling

A snowy view from House

I have quite a few passions/addictions, and another that’s pretty high up there is tea! I currently have 15 varieties in my cupboard, each of which is had on particular occasions and has a very special purpose, but every day has to start with a rather large mug of Earl Grey (I’m not only in love but a bit of a snob).

This week and weekend, I’ve finally made it back to a few of my favourite Norwich haunts. Forget bar crawling, this city is best for a good old café crawl (although many of my favourite places for tea do also serve as bars in the evenings and late into the night)!

My return began with a visit to the Bicycle Shop. Usually visits to the Bicycle Shop involve masses of tapas, the perfect accompaniment to any drinking. I particularly love the ambience in the Bicycle Shop, emphasised by the beautiful decor and the way that the whole place is candle-lit of an evening. The candles have often resulted in being sat in pitch black by the end of the night as they go out and no one seems to notice (either because too much alcohol has been consumed or, I like to think, because company is just so stimulating and we’re all having such a nice time). The Bicycle Shop serves the nicest Moroccan Green tea. A bag all the way from Morocco when I visited at Easter sits in my cupboard, but I’m ashamed to admit that it’s not quite the same as a tea bag. Perhaps one of the most important things for me when drinking tea however, is what it comes in. The Bicycle Shop definitely has the best selection of China which is always mix-and-match and provides me with far too much entertainment (and the person I’m with far too much embarrassment as I spill tea in an attempt to see the bottom of the cup)!

The following day I visited House, another of my favourites on St Benedict’s Street and another with a very pretty selection of China. House is a vintage café and yet another place to get a great fish finger sandwich or a CRUMPET, and anywhere that serves a crumpet is fine by me! I had a slice of rose baklava to accompany my tea this time which was very, very tasty! They even used to have an Etch-a-Sketch to play with which is probably what used to get me back quite so often although sadly it seems to have disappeared. Nevertheless, the ridiculously comfy sofa positioned right in the window is ideal for people-watching – and for being people-watched back – instead and because they serve loose tea they’re happy to create blends which is always exciting. Lovely spot for a proper catch up!

Yesterday I headed to Strangers Coffee House in Pottergate. When I was working in Norwich this used to be my regular sandwich stop (not that I should admit that what with working in food somewhere else) because they do some really unusual but very tasty fillings. Even though it’s quite a small café and an empty table is rare, I love the location of Strangers because it’s right next to St Gregory’s Green and a rather handy wall to perch on at any time of year (I got a very wet bottom inadvertently sitting on a patch of melted snow yesterday). In the summer their iced tea is particularly yummy!

Today I experienced breakfast at Frank’s Bar on Bedford Street for the first time. Frank’s is somewhere frequented by me just as often for a celebratory beverage (or several) as for a cup of tea. The menu has always been an endless list of wines, beers, and spirits, making for some very experimental drinking. However today we were greeted by an actual cocktail menu; return visit is obligatory! Frank’s is table service which always feels rather decadent, and they serve London Tea Company tea, whose packaging always gives you the full run-down of what the tea is best for (it’s the little things). My favourite is chamomile and lavender which is always perfect after a long day of shopping, its soporific effect leaving a snoozy Laura in the corner. Again the accompanying bread and oils make for good absorption of any drink and while there may not be an Etch-a-Sketch, there is Shut The Box and Rummikub, and apparently their Full English breakfast is also extremely satisfactory (can’t believe I’ve gone this long without trying it)!