Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts

Monday, 22 April 2019

Valencia

Preview image for Papaya Sunrise

Bit of a Love Actually moment at the airport as we hurtled our way along endless walkways and travellators to a gate due to close in 1 minute. Not in pursuit of a love interest, we were just wanting to make our flight, which we did... just. Received lots of glares from staff and fellow passengers as we boarded the plane, although on the bright side, we had only been seated about 5 minutes before we were making our way to the runway (not that I'd recommend it. Stress probably out-weighed the slight bonus). Better late than never!

A smooth flight passed in next to no time before we were landing in Valencia. No wall of heat as we disembarked, but bright sun and something in the air that told us we were abroad.

Our apartment was only a short taxi ride from the airport, and we then found a coffee in a local café while we waited for check-in.

Unpacked in our respective rooms, we headed straight out to explore our surroundings and make the most of the day! It wasn't long before we came across a bakery for some lunch al fresco. Driven on by chills after food (al fresco seating was in the shade, and the streets of Valencia do seem rather to form wind tunnels), we carried on into the Old Town to see what points of interest we could find. Lots of wandering in the direction of pretty looking buildings and streets ended up taking us looping this way and that. 


Eventually we decided we needed to formulate some kind of plan, so having wandered into the Turia Gardens (a lovely green space set in the former river bed of the Turia River, diverted after flooding in the 1950s), we stopped at a café to peruse the map over hot drinks and churros.



Keen, as always, to climb a tower for a view to get our bearings, we ascended the 207 steps to the top of Torre del Micalet in the Valencia Cathedral. We were met with mountains in one direction, the sea in another, and a real mix of buildings both new and old (many of the old with the blue tiled domes that we'd spotted here and there on our wanderings).


Sun shining by this point, we spent a while basking in the warmth and the view before the chime of a rather large (thus loud) bell had us pinned against the safety railings, bringing us rudely back to reality and the arrival of 7pm. Back at the bottom, we retraced our steps to familiarity, now in search of tapas and sangria.


We found a bar slightly off the beaten track and popular with locals, where we enjoyed a selection including aubergine with honey, Padron peppers (always a firm favourite), mini chorizo, anchovies in vinegar, and ibérico croquets.

Back to the apartment via the supermarket where we stocked up on breakfast bits, we formulated some kind of a plan for Day Two before bed.

Preview image for Papaya Sunrise

Returning back to the apartment for our second evening, we've still not got our bearings. Valencia is a city full of diagonals, and no route seems straight forward!  Sunshine forecast with very little cloud, we decided to head to the beach for a day. A slightly restless night meant most of us allowed ourselves a lie-in, so our day had a relaxed start.

We opted for a beach a few km South of the city at El Saler. Supposedly, the route was fairly straightforward. One bus (the 25) from the City Centre. Upon arrival at the bus stop, the sign informed us that our wait for the next bus was 16 minutes. We stood, we waited, the time didn't change. After at least 16 minutes of waiting, the sign had instead gone up to read 21 minutes. We took this as our cue to give up, and hailed a taxi instead.

After a slight detour (El Saler is apparently also the name of a shopping area in the city), we arrived at the beach. Home of the paella, we had to try some! We ordered the chicken on recommendation, and cod croquets while we waited. Sitting in the sun, sipping more sangria, we felt truly in 'holiday mode'.


Following our leisurely lunch, we headed along a pine-lined path (the smell was heavenly) to the beach. Shoes off on the edge like we were entering someone's house, the sand was pleasantly warm and felt good between the toes. The sea was a gorgeous light to dark blue from the shallows to the depths, and there were several container ships on the horizon. 


Of course, I headed straight for the water. 'Refreshing', was my verdict. Along the sand we walked and talked, sitting for a while at the base of a dune listening to the waves crashing, watching the world go by. Ready again for food (when on holiday), we decided to head back into the city.



Thought we'd give the bus another go, and were pleased this time to find as we reached the stop that there was only a 4 minute wait for the next one. Our hearts sank, however, as on its approach we read 'COMPLET' on the front of the bus. On it drove, and the sign at the stop changed to 33 minutes. Time passed pleasantly enough though, and we were soon on the next bus.

Wanting to explore some more of the Turia Gardens, we alighted to walk through and on in search of food. Still very much on British time, we struggled for a while to find anywhere open with more than drinks on offer. Eventually though, we found somewhere with an interesting menu where we stopped and I enjoyed diced chicken in a peanut sauce on black spaghetti. 


While at dinner, we made a plan to go on a walking tour for Day Three, then headed back for an early night before alarms in the morning. 

Preview image for Papaya Sunrise

Our walking tour was due to begin at 10am, so full of a hearty breakfast we made our way to the meeting point. In Plaça de la Verge, we looked out for obvious signs of a tour, but to no avail. Soon identifying other lost-looking tourists, we gathered together and waited.

Tour guides came and went, but not for the company that we were all very sure we'd booked with, Valencia & Go. When eventually our guide arrived, she informed us that two were down to one, so she'd had to reschedule our tour for the afternoon.  

With a couple of hours to kill we sat a while in a café in the square with a drink and a view to find somewhere to go nearby. We settled on The Serranos Gate (once one of twelve gates that formed part of the ancient city walls), only a short walk from where we would be meeting the guide once again. A few less steps to climb, and with lower levels for stopping a while, we enjoyed the panoramic views.




Back at the bottom, we wandered a while along pretty streets, stopping for small snacks to tide us over until lunch after the tour. I opted for a pastry with walnuts and raisins served on an edible paper plate (I did have to check the 'edible' part with our guide when we re-joined her).

Our walking tour took us mostly around the old city, and it was good to find out a little more about buildings which we'd now encountered a few times on our wanderings. Our tour ended with a taste of the nuts used in Spanish Horchata (a tiger nut, I believe), and as were then right outside the Horchateria, we chose to pop in for refreshment and a seat before we carried on with our day.





Via the train station which we scouted out in order to leave our bags on our final day, we made our way to L'umbracle, which we'd seen from the bus the previous day. Another amble through the Turia Gardens brought us to the modern part of the city. Here we stayed a while, admiring 80's architecture, sniffing roses, and taking great delight in people watching.




Clouds starting to gather, we hopped back on the bus into the Old Town. Despite its not truly being a traditional Valencian drink, we were still keen to try Agua de Valencia, a dangerous mix of orange juice, bubbles, gin, and vodka. We'd been recommended a particular square of bars by our guide earlier in the day, so found our way back there for an aperitif. Soon feeling that lovely 'warm glow', we went yet again in search of food.

Re-tracing our steps (seemed to be the only reliable way to find our way around), we found our way back to the restaurant where we had enjoyed tapas on our first night. This evening's selection included smoked sardine fillet, fried cheese, Russian salad, garlic prawns, roasted red peppers, and spicy chicken wings.

The journey back to the apartment was still aided by a map, but was finally beginning to feel a little more familiar. Upon reaching the apartment, we enjoyed a few cups of tea and a several games of Dobble before bed.

Preview image for Papaya Sunrise

Check-out was at 11am, so we had a relatively relaxed start to our day. All ready to go, we pulled our cases along to the station where we'd sussed out the Left Luggage the day before. While there, we decided to investigate the old First Class waiting room which was beautifully decorated in traditional ceramic tiling.


Maundy Thursday meant a Holy Day for Valencia, so lots of places usually with an entrance fee were free for the day. We managed to visit the Silk Exchange before lunch, as recommended by our guide the previous day who we actually bumped into as we entered. 


Having wandered around the different rooms once bustling with bankers and tradespeople, we found ourselves a light lunch of sandwiches in a café with indoor seating (hard to find in a city usually bathed in sunshine) as the rain was looming, and it was a little chilly with the sun behind the clouds.

After lunch we went in search of another recommendation; the church of Saint Nicolas. Here we took an audio tour around the chapels, taking plenty of time to admire the stunning architecture and decoration inside.



Back outside, the rain had arrived. As well as free entry, Maundy Thursday also meant that many places closed at 3pm, so were somewhat limited for time. In want of entertainment, but also somewhere to stay dry, we decided to go for the ultimate team-building experience (could have been rather a risk at the end of a holiday) and try an Escape Room. 

The Exit was a short walk away, and we were pleased to find that they had no bookings for the day, so we were able to try their Prison Break Escape Room. Found a nearby café for fuel while they set the room up for us, then headed back to try our luck (or perhaps that should be skill). Padlock combinations and hidden keys a-plenty, we finally made our break for freedom with just under a minute to spare then made our way back to the station with one final café stop (and lots of admiring of street art) along the way.




The airport was a short taxi ride from the station, so we arrived in plenty of time. Quite in contrast to Gatwick, we were able to walk the full length of the airport twice, order food and drinks, and enjoy them with ample time to spare before our flight. 

No bridge or bus to our plane, when we finally came to board the rain was torrential, and the mad dash across the concourse was a wet one. We were greeted by a complementary paper towel, which was a new experience for me.

It was agreed all round that a few days in Valencia was just what we needed. Plenty to do, and despite rain at the end, we were very lucky with the weather. Friendly people, good prices, it's definitely a good place to be for a short break. Now the countdown begins to the next holiday!

Wednesday, 23 August 2017

Woah, we went to Ibiza!

... please have understood that the title of this goes to the tune of Vengaboys. Otherwise that was totally lost and thus pointless.

Back in England and it has been truly English in its grey, miserable presentation of 'summer'. Deciding to give in to the fact that we clearly already had summer, somewhere between May and June, I've actually been feeling rather excited recently by the prospect of autumn and the return of tights under my denim shorts, Pumpkin Spice Lattes and the leaves changing colour. Nevertheless, a short visit to somewhere where the summer is still in full swing did remind me how much I also love the sun, and the warmth that can sometimes come with it. Such a cynic.

This holiday has been mostly spent slaving away over my dissertation which it's beginning to feel like I've been writing forever. Ten days til I'm free and I cannot wait. I haven't written for pleasure in so long, I'm not even sure I remember how. So forgive me if this is even more long and rambling than usual. Postcards, postcards!

Made friends with an inquisitive little lizard

Despite the pressures of academia, I couldn't go the whole summer without an escape so managed to book a few days away with a most excellent travel companion, and so began our adventure. Friday night arrived and off we flew to the island, far away from 'this big town and the rain' (Vengaboys got it so right). I've never been on a flight with so much excited buzz. Time flew as we caught up on recent happenings, laughing and chatting too with other passengers. Choosing to stay on the quieter side of the island, even the bars in our hotel had closed by the time we arrived so we were straight to bed, eagerly awaiting what tomorrow would bring.

... a room with a view

Our first day was spent blissfully enjoying the hotel's facilities; reading, eating, napping, drinking, then eating and drinking some more, all from the comfort of a lounger in the sun. Only my second stay in an all-inclusive hotel, the constant food rotation (breakfast - continental breakfast - lunch - snack - afternoon tea - dinner) was a delight. In the evening we were treated to a beautiful sunset before being entertained by the sounds of the most surreal covers band complete with 'keytar' and multiple costume changes. Also tried to teach each other a few card games, which after several glasses of bubbles proved a challenge, but also highly entertaining.



The hotel sat right on the sea, with beautiful views over the bay of Cala Llonga. Only a small stretch of sand, the beach was a matter of moments away along a coastal path lined with pine trees, incredibly reminiscent of Mallorca. Here we spent a few hours napping some more, with the occasional visit to the sea for a cooling paddle and an attempt at spotting some fish in the crystal clear waters. Eventually rousing from an incredibly cosy nap, curled up in the foetal position under the shade of a parasol, it was already time for us to head back to the hotel in preparation for our impending doom. An actual night out in Ibiza.



Ushuaïa was another surreal experience; somewhere between a music festival and a club night. The first set already under way as we arrived, groups of guys and girls hung around the edges a little like at the school disco, only each one was armed with a drink that had set them back almost 20€. Lost in people watching from our chosen spot on the edge, we didn't really notice the place fill up but suddenly it did and we made our way to the middle of the crowd where we very much enjoyed dancing and singing along to the next two sets. Smoke machines, pyrotechnics, confetti and costumed dancers, all around a pool where a few of the happier members of the crowd danced knee deep in water, it was certainly a fun experience and enough to make us realise that we need to revive at least a little bit of our love for nights out. In our old age, we were glad that this one had a midnight end point so we were safely tucked up in bed with cups of tea by 1am. Perfection.

EDX's set was definitely my highlight

Already at our penultimate day, spurred on perhaps by a small taste of the Ibiza experience, we decided not to hide out around our hotel again but instead to venture to Ibiza Town (Eivissa) for an explore. I had hoped from a little research online that it might have some pretty bits but neither of us were prepared for just how pretty it actually was. Our taxi dropped us at the port and from there we wandered along to the marina, ooh-ing and aah-ing at super-yachts of the rich and famous. 


Super-yachts were yet to come...

Pretty cobbled streets wound away from the marina so we took one of these, sort of following sign posts of interest where we felt that we could understand at least some of the Spanish. So many pretty doorways, colourful flowers, and bright painted window frames all looked beautiful against the white walls of the buildings and blue sky above. Agreeing to take it slow uphill and in the heat (we learned our lesson in Santorini), we took many short stops on brick walls in shady and breezy spots. 



Our wanders took us most of the way around the walls of the old town, each battlement providing yet another panoramic view of the island's rolling hills, rooftops and the sea beyond. Passion fruit sorbet, a seemingly impossible-to-find cathedral, a busker with a beautiful voice and plenty of small gift shops to pop into for browsing and air conditioning kept us well entertained. So we headed back to Cala Llonga for the evening sun and a meal in the hotel's Japanese restaurant where our lack of subtlety in wanting to try as much of the menu as possible resulted in an extra dessert (apple and wasabi sorbet; actually so much tastier than either of us had anticipated). 




The final day of our stay came around all too quickly. It seems we built ourselves up from dozy to active as, despite the exertion of the previous day, our final day was definitely the most active. We began the day with an early breakfast followed by a serene yoga session in the dappled shade of the hotel's tennis courts. By the time we had then packed ready for check-out and got outside, there seemed to be no room for us to lounge in the sun but fortunately we found some stray loungers and pulled them together by the pool. There we enjoyed watching others exert themselves in aqua gym and a game of water volleyball whilst we made full use of hotel perks.Well rested, we made our way again to the beach where we hired a pedalo for an explore of the bay from a different perspective. Trying to navigate nude sailors, snorkelers galore and many a mysterious floating object, we had great fun and felt like expert pedalo 'drivers' by the time we were pulling up on the shore.

Not long til our departure, we decided to have a game of table tennis which proved incredibly challenging in the wind. Accidental trick shots played by the peak of a cap, our bat-free hands and other body parts which shall remain nameless provided much entertainment until it was time for our scheduled shower, one more sunset and a final go at the buffet before our transfer to the airport.


Considering I'd never been to Spain until only a few summers ago, I'm thoroughly enjoying becoming better acquainted. Ibiza is a beautiful island and true to my style I feel like we did plenty for a few days away but have also left plenty to be done if another visit arises. We shall see!