Sintra

From having not been away away in forever, to a sudden flurry of trips, I've not been able to keep up with myself!

So, I write this first post (possibly of 4, maybe even 5.. strap in!) in retrospect. Hopeful that I haven't forgotten anything, but also aware that realistically, I probably will have. One thing I won't forget in a hurry is the feeling I had as I lay on a yoga mat in the middle of an enchanted forest in Portugal, having only been at work less than 24-hours before. Pure bliss. Surreal, but pure bliss.

I think booking a retreat for our first adventure abroad in over two years was definitely the right thing to do. It was an utterly magical day among a small group of lovely women, in a really beautiful setting. We shared. Experiences, stories, expression, an enchanting space, a delicious lunch; it felt like a real 'welcome back'. And even 3 months on, I'm still carrying the energy with me. I'm still asking the questions; still keen to learn more. Someone actually suggested the other day that I should blog about my yoga journey. If I do, I think the Sintra retreat might be where I start.

But, for now, I'll move on to the evening after. Having arrived in the dark on the previous evening in a taxi that hurtled along the narrow, cobbled streets the wrong way (my Portuguese may be next to non-existent, but I can still recognise signs for one-way streets), then headed straight out to the retreat the next morning, we hadn't really had time to get our bearings.

So, when our day in the forest came to a close, we wandered slowly back to our apartment; taking a little more time to admire Sintra in all its fairy-tale glory (made even more charming in the evening sun). That evening, we learned that we'd be eating a lot of bacalhau, especially at the particular restaurant we had chosen where they served nothing but (it's cod, by the way). 

The next day, the weather had turned. But it was dry, so we headed to Cascais for a day by the sea. Found a nice, sheltered spot on a small beach in a bay where we stayed until lunch; people watching, splashing in the sea, and telling ourselves that it definitely was just about bikini weather..

One of the women at the retreat had recommended a place in Cascais by the lighthouse which offered live radio and good food. So, we walked there for lunch along the waterfront and past some interesting buildings (and a volleyball tournament (we didn't stop)).

Sam was glad that we opted to climb the lighthouse before eating, as once at the top, she may have otherwise lost her lunch. In going up when we did, we also seemed to beat the crowd. Sat at the bottom looking up as we ate, it certainly seemed a lot more popular all of a sudden (we're clearly just such trend-setters).

After food, we were back on the bus, and on our way to another recommended spot; Adraga Beach.

The weather had still not improved, but having grown up spending time on Norfolk beaches in all weathers, in all seasons, we were not deterred. Seemed this particular beach was a popular spot with surfers; we were taken aback by the power of the waves as we wandered along the sand, and between rocks.

As much as we didn't want to tear ourselves away, we were aware that time was pressing on, and we were ever-so-slightly in the middle of nowhere (eek!) with a fairly hefty walk back up a hill to where we'd be catching the bus.

Well, Google Maps failed us. And while there's a fairly long story here somewhere, I'll spare you the details and just say that we were truly grateful to the elderly gentleman who entertained us with his fashioning (and testing) of some sort of pan flute made from plastic tubing, as we sat on the kerb outside his house. He really did sound surprisingly good!

Eventually, the bus came (of course not before two others that couldn't take us where we needed to go appeared) and it was back to town for dinner and an early night to recover.

Aahh, the Pena Palace. Just when we thought the weather couldn't get any better, it didn't. It got worse. A whole lot worse. But in true British-tourist style, we powered on through (well, and we were lulled into a slightly false sense of security as we headed out into sunshine in the town itself in the morning).

..actually, it wasn't exactly sunny, was it?

One thing we learned about Sintra is that it's a bit of a micro-climate. And as our bus climbed up the mountain rounds, there was a distinct shift. The Pena Palace of pictures was barely visible as we reached the end of the line for entry. It was comical, really, how determined we all were to have a nice time as we stood in the queue being battered by wind and horizontal rain. Some of us had been sensible enough to have at least something waterproof to hand, but many of us had not (although, as I tried to reason, skin is waterproof.. isn't it?).

Maybe not what we'd expected, it was still an experience and we made the best of it. The cloud did clear up at least enough to appreciate the palace's colourful facade, and our walk through the gardens was at least dry.

The Castle of the Moors, we both agreed, would definitely make for a lovely family day out on a bright and sunny day. We soldiered on, but by this point, we really were getting very wet, and could barely see where we were going as we climbed up steps and along the ruined walls, let alone admire any views of the town and countryside below. Wet through to our unmentionables, it was time to swallow our pride and call it a day.

A warm shower, and a swift change into some dry clothes back at the apartment, we found ourselves in a lovely little restaurant almost right next door, where the waiter (possibly the owner, too) was very keen for us to try the desserts he'd just whipped up for the evening service. We did, and they were delicious.

Having abandoned our palace / castle crawl the previous day, we resolved to fit one more in before we would make our way back to Lisbon for our flight home.

Maybe it was in part an improvement in the weather, but I think either way we both agreed that we'd saved the best til last. Much of the palace itself was closed off for refurbishment, but the gardens were great fun to explore. We enjoyed spiralling down into the depths of the well, crossing various bridges, climbing towers, and walking through the grotto.

Finally, after a bite to eat, it was time to collect our luggage from the Tourist Information office and board a train to Lisbon.

Having spent longer than we anticipated in Sintra in the morning, our Lisbon exploration was brief, and a little bit frantic. But it was nice to crash a honeymoon (don't worry, they were expecting us), and to enjoy refreshment while enjoying a view over the sea in the sunshine (typical). Oh, and there was definitely time for tram hysteria, so that was good.

I think a few days away was the perfect amount to ease us into holiday-ing again. And it was very grounding (if that's the right word) to see people we knew. A very special trip, all round, really. Maybe we'll be back for more retreating in the not too distant future. I hope.

Adventures in Abergavenny

 ..which I think we just about managed to pronounce by the end of our four day stay.

Abergavenny was the perfect spot for another girly getaway. We opted to travel by train, and were pleased to find that everything we needed for a few days was within walking distance; amenities and hikes a-plenty! Worth noting, as well, that the train from Paddington to Newport / Cardiff is so simple. We could hardly believe how quickly we were in Wales on the way there, and back on the District Line in London upon our return. Absolutely a route I'll be taking full advantage of again in future, I hope.

From Newport, we had a short journey (just two stops) to Abergavenny where we were pleased to find one waiting taxi driver who delivered our baggage and us to our Airbnb on Regent Street (what a place name)! With the host still getting the last few bits ready, we dropped our bags and then headed out for lunch. A full three minutes later, we were on the high street and making our way to Portico Lounge where we opted for a table with a window view so we could people watch, and keep an eye on the weather which was being fairly indecisive at this point (a theme which would continue). 

Is it weird to be excited by a Morrisons? Because I was very excited by the Morrisons in Abergavenny. It was so spacious, and modern, and brightly lit (in a good way) and fellow shoppers were so friendly (another theme which would continue; the people of Abergavenny made us feel very welcome indeed)! Here, we gathered provisions for the days ahead, before making our way back 'home' to unpack shopping and cases.

Unfortunately, by the time we set back out again it was gone 4, and everything (the Tourist Information included) was closed, because.. small towns. So, we decided to walk through Linda Vista Gardens; a green space on the edge of town which we hoped would surely be open. 

It was! And we discovered lots of daffodils, wonderful mountain views, and a swing where we swung a while before continuing our wander into the Castle Meadows beyond. As we walked across the meadows in the direction of the River Usk, along with many dog walkers, the heavens decided to open, and winds were too strong for a brolly. So, we sheltered under a clump of trees until the rain passed over, which it did almost as quickly as it had arrived. 

Our walk continued to the river which ran along the edge of the meadows. We followed it for a little way before heading back to town in search of food via the castle grounds. Despite failed attempts with the log burner, we did have a very cosy first evening.

For fear of missing its opening hours again, we decided to start our day (after a hearty breakfast) at the Tourist Information Centre (which actually proved quite tricky to find) in the hopes of retrieving a map or two, and also in search of any recommendations for 'things to do' from a local.

We'd done a bit of research the previous evening, and the gentleman in the Tourist Information confirmed our suspicions that the Skirrid might be a bit excessive by foot (we'll just have to go back with a car), but Sugar Loaf was easy to reach from the town, as was the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal.

With a view to doing Sugar Loaf as a birthday special for Jess, we opted for the canal walk. So, we returned to the Castle Meadows where this time we followed the river in the opposite direction before joining the road and crossing the Llanfoist Bridge into unknown territory..

Armed with instructions from the Tourist Information and an All Trails map, we were very proud of ourselves for making our way to the canal. A footpath took us past a cemetery and allotments, downhill to an underpass which went below a busy A-road, alongside a garden centre (we avoided temptation), and finally up a narrow road which would lead us to the base of the Blorenge, and steps up (we weren't expecting up) to the canal at Llanfoist Wharf. 

A bench by the Wharfingers Cottage with a view back to the town below made for the perfect lunch spot in the sunshine. Here we stayed a while, before walking on to Govilon Wharf. 

In the meadow, we'd experienced high speed winds, but were very glad to leave these behind in the shelter of the trees which lined the canal either side (although we were treated to some unexpected hail showers at least twice). The walk was really peaceful; just a few more dog walkers, and a couple of boats chugging along. At Govilon Wharf, we followed signs to the old railway line, and it was this that we followed all the way back to Llanfoist, making the perfect circular walk.  

Having missed the castle and town museum on the previous day, we decided to stop by on this occasion on our way back into town. Much of the castle is ruins now, which the child in me was disappointed not to be able to scramble up, but it still made for a pretty view with the mountains behind. The museum was free! And filled with interesting artefacts telling the story of Abergavenny which provided some afternoon entertainment.

In the evening, with Abergavenny famous for its annual food festival, we decided it would be rude not to sample some of the 'local' cuisine, so after a long soak in the bath, we tucked into tasty curries (from Regency 59) with an episode of Bridgerton before bed (of course not before Sam and I had blown up balloons and hung bunting for the following morning).

Our third and final full day came round all too quickly. As it was a special occasion, we'd booked breakfast in the Art Shop & Chapel in town. It was a really quirky setting, and delicious food!

Energised for the day ahead, it was time to walk. At the Tourist Information, we'd picked up a leaflet for a walk up to the Sugar Loaf with written instructions and a little map to follow. Written instructions always worry me slightly, because I overthink them way too much, but we made it up to the trig point with very little stress (aside from the challenge presented by hill-walking to a group of girls from the flatlands of Norfolk..) and were welcomed by stunning views and glorious sunshine!

The walk up took us along country lanes, through woodland, and past some wild ponies. Like with the canal walk the day before, we passed very few people and only as we reached the summit, did the 'crowds' start to gather. Our timing in some ways was rather unfortunate, because what seemed to us like a couple of groups of Duke of Edinburgh award getters, or maybe boy Scouts had already gathered at the top for photos and general merriment. However, they actually soon moved on, so we were left to have our own photos in peace, and also lunch with a view.

Another circular, walking down was mainly across the heath, and then was supposed to be through a different section of woodland, but it was here that we went a bit wrong, and ended up relying on Google Maps and our visual memory to get us back into town. At least our detour took us past a few sheep fields where little lambs were frolicking, so that was a welcome distraction.

We ate out on the last evening, at a lovely Italian restaurant (Casa Bianca) where we enjoyed tasty food and equally as tasty cocktails. Back 'home', we played a game of pairs and rested after a lot of walking, and ready for a day of travel ahead.

Our final morning had arrived, and we were all sad to be leaving. Kindly, our host allowed us a late checkout, so we were able to take one more stroll around the town in the morning before we needed to be back to collect our bags. It had been recommended to us that we should visit St Mary's Priory, and the wooden Jesse that was there. Apparently one of a kind; it is a wooden carving from the medieval times, and was explained to us by a very friendly elderly lady who was clearly very passionate about the history of Abergavenny, and the church.

On our way back to the house, we happened upon a fish & chip shop offering gluten free on Saturdays, so the decision was made that we would treat ourselves to lunch there before leaving later that afternoon. We collected our bags, and trundled our way along the high street (much busier at the weekend than it had been any other day in our experience) back to the restaurant. The sun was shining, so we decided to make the most of it and found a bench to sit on near the Chapel where we'd had breakfast the previous morning. And it transpired, as we were doing a last minute spot of local area research, that we were also sat right by the river Gavenny, which gives its name to the town.

Although we'd booked a later train, we decided that actually, it was probably fairly impractical to spend a day with our bags. And we wanted to end our trip on a high, which lunch in the sunshine without a jacket (in Wales in April) definitely was! So we made our way to the station, where we continued to be taken aback by friendliness as a trio of youths offered to carry our bags across the bridge to the other platform.. and didn't run away with them (ah, such cynics we are)!

Three short train rides, all very pleasant, and we were back in London and faced with crowds at Paddington station. But it was all very much worth it. And I'm definitely already looking ahead to the diary to see when I can get back to explore more of Wales! 

Back to Brighton

Last time we were in Brighton was February 2020. We saw Bombay Bicycle Club at the Brighton Centre, and had a generally very lovely weekend. We were lucky to get away again before the first Lockdown; to Norwich for another gig (Blossoms this time) at UEA. Then disaster struck. I just hope we haven't jinxed anything this time.

It was cold. It was windy. So very windy. But the sun shone, and we've been drifting in and out on our journey back because we definitely got our fill of sea air.

First stop, just like last time, was to The Pond where we're always very pleased by the beer selection, and also enjoy the Bao served up alongside said beers. Full of beer and bao, we made our way to our home for the night in the hopes of dropping bags and getting our bearings.

We'd booked a room with a sea view in a small guesthouse in the Kemptown area. The other end of the seafront to where we'd stayed previously, but still within walking distance from the Brighton Centre.

After dropping our bags, we took a detour along the seafront before heading via our favourite little Swedish shop for salted liquorice, and back into town to the Lanes. Time flies when you're having fun, and by the time we'd mooched a while, it was time for food again. Found ourselves at Dead Wax Social advertising beer, vinyl, and pizza on the chalkboard outside. By this point, I was popping the Rennies (aahh, travel stress, how I've missed thee), so didn't partake in the beer, but pizza courtesy of Decked Out Pizza was delicious!

Just about gave into the urge to nap when we got back again to our room. Quick turnaround, and we were back out (this time avoiding the seafront, and the worst of the wind which by this point could only really be described as 'getting a little bit ridiculous') and headed for the Brighton Centre. This time, to see The Kooks and The Snuts supporting their anniversary tour.

Safe to say, 15 years since their first album, the Kooks have still got it. Was a fairly bittersweet feeling watching them from the comfort of seats in the balcony (you have no idea the relief I felt when I opened our tickets the night before and saw the word SEAT at the top (or maybe you do..)); lots of nostalgia combined with lots of wishing 15 years wasn't so long ago. We were in good company. There was definitely a 'type' for the most part in the crowd.

Blown back along the promenade to our hotel, we were glad of a cup of tea (gosh we really are old) before bed.

This morning, we found brunch at a little café a 5 minute walk (uphill - what is it with Brighton and all its hills!?) from where we were staying. Good food, good drinks, good music, good atmosphere. 

Were a little worried by lashings of rain while we sat, but actually by the time we had checked out of our accommodation and were out and about on the seafront again (of course), the sky was clearing and even the wind had died down.

A walk along the beach to the old pier was the perfect way to start a Sunday. Even a fall on the rocks (so smooth, obviously) didn't detract. 

Back to the Palace pier, we enjoyed losing all of our 2p coins on the Tuppenny Falls, and a couple of games of Air Hockey. Grabbed a bag of donuts as we left and made our way to catch our train.

Arrived at the station with plenty of time for a Bagelman and to find some semi-decent seats for the first leg of our journey.

Since then, we've had a rather long wait in a carpark at the back of Three Bridges station for a coach which took us along leg two to the sounds of Al Stewart on BBC Radio Sussex. Almost nearing the end of leg three, and looking forward to comfy cosies and cat cuddles (how's that for some alliteration?).

Thankful today for train journeys long enough to allow the creative juices to flow. Hopeful today for a few more ventures out of London this year. We'll see.