A stay in Llangollen

January 2024 was the last time I wrote anything 'worthy' (I mean, who decides, really?) of publishing, so rusty feels like an understatement! But with finally feeling like I'm somewhat out of the fog and a little further along than simply treading water (metaphorically, of course - I still can't swim!) comes the right kind of headspace to put some words down on a page. And there really is nothing like a spot of travel to get me inspired to write!

Our trip to Llangollen was actually planned for the May Half Term, but in the throes of our move North of the river (and the M25), we decided that rescheduling might not be the worst idea, and decided on a Wednesday-Saturday at the start of the Summer Holiday instead.

The drive took us through -shires aplenty, but was smooth, and we made it to our destination in under 4 hours which felt like pretty good going. Arrival to the Chainbridge Hotel itself was ever so slightly complicated in that we found ourselves parked in a carpark well above the hotel, and had to scale a cliff (I exaggerate, but with luggage it might as well have been 'scaling') and steep steps over the canal to find the entrance. But check-in was quick and easy, and we were soon in our room and straight onto the balcony - conveniently, just in time for the arrival of a heritage train at the station across the river - to enjoy the view.

Mid-afternoon when we arrived, we decided to stay local for our exploring, so took to the towpath which would lead us along the nearby canal and into town. It's always easy to forget when stepping out of London that a) not everywhere is open every day of the week, and b) that many places will be closed by 4pm (if not 3). But we managed to find a few small gift shops still open for a 'sweep-browse', and a fantastic second-hand bookshop above an unassuming café with an extensive collection of seemingly every genre.

Decided to have an early dinner, and found a decent local pizzeria, and an ice-cream shop over the road which was still open just long enough for us to grab dessert. On our walk back, we deviated for some scrambling across the rocks in the river. Then back at the hotel, we sat a while on the river by the terrace for drinks before turning in for the night.

Up and out fairly early on the Thursday, our Continental Breakfast (honestly, can you beat them?) set up us well for a day of adventure. Decided on a drive into town rather than walking the 40 minutes along the towpath again, and arrived in good time to wander a little way along the 'Riverside Walk' before heading over to the heritage railway for the 10am departure to Corwen.

Fortunately, a very small number of passengers were spread over four carriages for the outward journey, so at the advice of a kindly gentleman on the platform, we settled into some platform-side seats for views over the river and mountains as we made our way along on what Ronnie described as a 'no anxiety slow-ler coaster', bouncing up and down on vintage track and seats. Sheep galore, and a few opportunities for waving at campers and walkers, it was a very relaxing journey indeed.

A 20 minute 'change' at the other end gave us ample opportunity to stride along the platform in order to beat the two coach-loads of passengers waiting to get on at Corwen for seats at the front again. Luckily, this time the front carriage was First Class, so we happily paid our £1 supplement (how about that, Greater Anglia!?) and I got into hyper-lapse mode for the return journey. Despite choosing a rail journey for what was forecast to be a rainy morning, the weather held and we were even treated to a little sunshine through the valley. 

Back in town, it was time for lunch. On our wanderings the day before when we were confronted with many a 'Closed' sign, we had happened upon 'Laura's Tearoom', so went to investigate in the hope that they would be open this time for a spot of lunch. We were in luck! And found the tearoom a nice, quiet spot for a sandwich, a pot of tea, and a slice of cake.

Fuelled once more, it was back to the car and on to the afternoon's activity - a visit to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (still can't pronounce it). I didn't actually know that I'd be nervous until we were pulling up to the carpark and an ever so slight wave of fear hit. But it did make me feel a little better that as we approached the longest and highest aqueduct in the UK, it was ever so slightly reassuring to realise that I wasn't alone in my worries at least according to others who were also planning to walk across, and doubting whether it was such a good idea after all..

We all made it, anyway. And braver still (in my opinion) were the people crossing via the water in kayaks or standing at the back of their narrow boats - no thank you! At least we had a rail on the pedestrian side. While in the area, we loosely followed a walk I had found in a leaflet at the Tourist Information in Llangollen which looked to be a riverside route with a railway viaduct at the other end. Unfortunately it wasn't quite as 'riverside' as I'd hoped with everything that grows up in abundance in the summer, but we did find a decent viewpoint in the woodland on the way back, so it was just about worth it.

Stopped for coffee at a narrowboat serving drinks in the Trevor Basin, then made a move when we thought we could feel a few spots of rain. Back on the balcony for a while before dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant and a short walk to the nearby Horseshoe Falls before bed.

We knew when we booked our trip to Wales that at least one day would be spent in Portmeirion, and with Friday expected to be the best day weather-wise, we thought we'd save it til later in our trip. 

The drive from Llangollen took us West towards the coast, through yet more beautiful mountain views (Snowdon featured which was exciting, although I'm not sure we decided which one it was for sure because they all looked so impressive from the roads below), around a spectacular reservoir, and past yet more flocks of sheep. 

Although I knew of Portmeirion as 'Italy.. but in Wales', I wasn't otherwise sure what to expect, and found the carpark to ticket booth experience akin to arriving at Universal Studios. As soon as we were into the entrance, I was mesmerised whichever way I looked - from colourful facades on the one side, to the estuary and mountains beyond on the other. 

Ditching the map in favour of 'going rogue', we opted for wandering up, down, and along whichever set of steps, narrow pathway, or small archway took our fancy, and spent the best part of the day exploring the village at a gentle pace. Lunch was an antipasti platter (and a local stout for me), and we had another stop later for gelato and sorbet. Otherwise, our wandering took us along the beach and around the headland to the lighthouse, through the woodland walk, around the village, and back into the woodland a little later for viewpoints and to find the 'dancing tree' and Chinese (or Japanese - the signage was conflicted) Garden.

 

Hard to tear ourselves away, but eventually we did, and chose to head back to Llangollen for dinner (tapas at the Three Eagles) and a sunset walk up and around to Berwyn station and across the hotel's namesake 'chainbridge' on our final evening.

Our last day was mostly for travel, but we did manage to squeeze one last adventure in before departing. As we'd driven into Llangollen on our first day, Ronnie had spotted some ruins at the top of a hill which, upon further investigation at the Tourist Information, turned out to be Castell Dinas Brân, the remains of a medieval castle. Well, as much as I certainly hope to return to Llangollen one day in the not too distant future, it still seemed silly not to pop up there before we went. So we had a mostly very pleasant (and partially very sweaty - we both regretted packing our shorts away) leg stretch and a great view at the top over lots of the places we'd been over the week.

I certainly continue to have really rather lovely holidays in Wales, and am already plotting and planning my return.. Anglesey, I see you.

Adventures in Abergavenny

 ..which I think we just about managed to pronounce by the end of our four day stay.

Abergavenny was the perfect spot for another girly getaway. We opted to travel by train, and were pleased to find that everything we needed for a few days was within walking distance; amenities and hikes a-plenty! Worth noting, as well, that the train from Paddington to Newport / Cardiff is so simple. We could hardly believe how quickly we were in Wales on the way there, and back on the District Line in London upon our return. Absolutely a route I'll be taking full advantage of again in future, I hope.

From Newport, we had a short journey (just two stops) to Abergavenny where we were pleased to find one waiting taxi driver who delivered our baggage and us to our Airbnb on Regent Street (what a place name)! With the host still getting the last few bits ready, we dropped our bags and then headed out for lunch. A full three minutes later, we were on the high street and making our way to Portico Lounge where we opted for a table with a window view so we could people watch, and keep an eye on the weather which was being fairly indecisive at this point (a theme which would continue). 

Is it weird to be excited by a Morrisons? Because I was very excited by the Morrisons in Abergavenny. It was so spacious, and modern, and brightly lit (in a good way) and fellow shoppers were so friendly (another theme which would continue; the people of Abergavenny made us feel very welcome indeed)! Here, we gathered provisions for the days ahead, before making our way back 'home' to unpack shopping and cases.

Unfortunately, by the time we set back out again it was gone 4, and everything (the Tourist Information included) was closed, because.. small towns. So, we decided to walk through Linda Vista Gardens; a green space on the edge of town which we hoped would surely be open. 

It was! And we discovered lots of daffodils, wonderful mountain views, and a swing where we swung a while before continuing our wander into the Castle Meadows beyond. As we walked across the meadows in the direction of the River Usk, along with many dog walkers, the heavens decided to open, and winds were too strong for a brolly. So, we sheltered under a clump of trees until the rain passed over, which it did almost as quickly as it had arrived. 

Our walk continued to the river which ran along the edge of the meadows. We followed it for a little way before heading back to town in search of food via the castle grounds. Despite failed attempts with the log burner, we did have a very cosy first evening.

For fear of missing its opening hours again, we decided to start our day (after a hearty breakfast) at the Tourist Information Centre (which actually proved quite tricky to find) in the hopes of retrieving a map or two, and also in search of any recommendations for 'things to do' from a local.

We'd done a bit of research the previous evening, and the gentleman in the Tourist Information confirmed our suspicions that the Skirrid might be a bit excessive by foot (we'll just have to go back with a car), but Sugar Loaf was easy to reach from the town, as was the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal.

With a view to doing Sugar Loaf as a birthday special for Jess, we opted for the canal walk. So, we returned to the Castle Meadows where this time we followed the river in the opposite direction before joining the road and crossing the Llanfoist Bridge into unknown territory..

Armed with instructions from the Tourist Information and an All Trails map, we were very proud of ourselves for making our way to the canal. A footpath took us past a cemetery and allotments, downhill to an underpass which went below a busy A-road, alongside a garden centre (we avoided temptation), and finally up a narrow road which would lead us to the base of the Blorenge, and steps up (we weren't expecting up) to the canal at Llanfoist Wharf. 

A bench by the Wharfingers Cottage with a view back to the town below made for the perfect lunch spot in the sunshine. Here we stayed a while, before walking on to Govilon Wharf. 

In the meadow, we'd experienced high speed winds, but were very glad to leave these behind in the shelter of the trees which lined the canal either side (although we were treated to some unexpected hail showers at least twice). The walk was really peaceful; just a few more dog walkers, and a couple of boats chugging along. At Govilon Wharf, we followed signs to the old railway line, and it was this that we followed all the way back to Llanfoist, making the perfect circular walk.  

Having missed the castle and town museum on the previous day, we decided to stop by on this occasion on our way back into town. Much of the castle is ruins now, which the child in me was disappointed not to be able to scramble up, but it still made for a pretty view with the mountains behind. The museum was free! And filled with interesting artefacts telling the story of Abergavenny which provided some afternoon entertainment.

In the evening, with Abergavenny famous for its annual food festival, we decided it would be rude not to sample some of the 'local' cuisine, so after a long soak in the bath, we tucked into tasty curries (from Regency 59) with an episode of Bridgerton before bed (of course not before Sam and I had blown up balloons and hung bunting for the following morning).

Our third and final full day came round all too quickly. As it was a special occasion, we'd booked breakfast in the Art Shop & Chapel in town. It was a really quirky setting, and delicious food!

Energised for the day ahead, it was time to walk. At the Tourist Information, we'd picked up a leaflet for a walk up to the Sugar Loaf with written instructions and a little map to follow. Written instructions always worry me slightly, because I overthink them way too much, but we made it up to the trig point with very little stress (aside from the challenge presented by hill-walking to a group of girls from the flatlands of Norfolk..) and were welcomed by stunning views and glorious sunshine!

The walk up took us along country lanes, through woodland, and past some wild ponies. Like with the canal walk the day before, we passed very few people and only as we reached the summit, did the 'crowds' start to gather. Our timing in some ways was rather unfortunate, because what seemed to us like a couple of groups of Duke of Edinburgh award getters, or maybe boy Scouts had already gathered at the top for photos and general merriment. However, they actually soon moved on, so we were left to have our own photos in peace, and also lunch with a view.

Another circular, walking down was mainly across the heath, and then was supposed to be through a different section of woodland, but it was here that we went a bit wrong, and ended up relying on Google Maps and our visual memory to get us back into town. At least our detour took us past a few sheep fields where little lambs were frolicking, so that was a welcome distraction.

We ate out on the last evening, at a lovely Italian restaurant (Casa Bianca) where we enjoyed tasty food and equally as tasty cocktails. Back 'home', we played a game of pairs and rested after a lot of walking, and ready for a day of travel ahead.

Our final morning had arrived, and we were all sad to be leaving. Kindly, our host allowed us a late checkout, so we were able to take one more stroll around the town in the morning before we needed to be back to collect our bags. It had been recommended to us that we should visit St Mary's Priory, and the wooden Jesse that was there. Apparently one of a kind; it is a wooden carving from the medieval times, and was explained to us by a very friendly elderly lady who was clearly very passionate about the history of Abergavenny, and the church.

On our way back to the house, we happened upon a fish & chip shop offering gluten free on Saturdays, so the decision was made that we would treat ourselves to lunch there before leaving later that afternoon. We collected our bags, and trundled our way along the high street (much busier at the weekend than it had been any other day in our experience) back to the restaurant. The sun was shining, so we decided to make the most of it and found a bench to sit on near the Chapel where we'd had breakfast the previous morning. And it transpired, as we were doing a last minute spot of local area research, that we were also sat right by the river Gavenny, which gives its name to the town.

Although we'd booked a later train, we decided that actually, it was probably fairly impractical to spend a day with our bags. And we wanted to end our trip on a high, which lunch in the sunshine without a jacket (in Wales in April) definitely was! So we made our way to the station, where we continued to be taken aback by friendliness as a trio of youths offered to carry our bags across the bridge to the other platform.. and didn't run away with them (ah, such cynics we are)!

Three short train rides, all very pleasant, and we were back in London and faced with crowds at Paddington station. But it was all very much worth it. And I'm definitely already looking ahead to the diary to see when I can get back to explore more of Wales!