January 2024 was the last time I wrote anything 'worthy' (I mean, who decides, really?) of publishing, so rusty feels like an understatement! But with finally feeling like I'm somewhat out of the fog and a little further along than simply treading water (metaphorically, of course - I still can't swim!) comes the right kind of headspace to put some words down on a page. And there really is nothing like a spot of travel to get me inspired to write!
Our trip to Llangollen was actually planned for the May Half Term, but in the throes of our move North of the river (and the M25), we decided that rescheduling might not be the worst idea, and decided on a Wednesday-Saturday at the start of the Summer Holiday instead.
The drive took us through -shires aplenty, but was smooth, and we made it to our destination in under 4 hours which felt like pretty good going. Arrival to the Chainbridge Hotel itself was ever so slightly complicated in that we found ourselves parked in a carpark well above the hotel, and had to scale a cliff (I exaggerate, but with luggage it might as well have been 'scaling') and steep steps over the canal to find the entrance. But check-in was quick and easy, and we were soon in our room and straight onto the balcony - conveniently, just in time for the arrival of a heritage train at the station across the river - to enjoy the view.
Mid-afternoon when we arrived, we decided to stay local for our exploring, so took to the towpath which would lead us along the nearby canal and into town. It's always easy to forget when stepping out of London that a) not everywhere is open every day of the week, and b) that many places will be closed by 4pm (if not 3). But we managed to find a few small gift shops still open for a 'sweep-browse', and a fantastic second-hand bookshop above an unassuming café with an extensive collection of seemingly every genre.
Decided to have an early dinner, and found a decent local pizzeria, and an ice-cream shop over the road which was still open just long enough for us to grab dessert. On our walk back, we deviated for some scrambling across the rocks in the river. Then back at the hotel, we sat a while on the river by the terrace for drinks before turning in for the night.
Up and out fairly early on the Thursday, our Continental Breakfast (honestly, can you beat them?) set up us well for a day of adventure. Decided on a drive into town rather than walking the 40 minutes along the towpath again, and arrived in good time to wander a little way along the 'Riverside Walk' before heading over to the heritage railway for the 10am departure to Corwen.
Fortunately, a very small number of passengers were spread over four carriages for the outward journey, so at the advice of a kindly gentleman on the platform, we settled into some platform-side seats for views over the river and mountains as we made our way along on what Ronnie described as a 'no anxiety slow-ler coaster', bouncing up and down on vintage track and seats. Sheep galore, and a few opportunities for waving at campers and walkers, it was a very relaxing journey indeed.
A 20 minute 'change' at the other end gave us ample opportunity to stride along the platform in order to beat the two coach-loads of passengers waiting to get on at Corwen for seats at the front again. Luckily, this time the front carriage was First Class, so we happily paid our £1 supplement (how about that, Greater Anglia!?) and I got into hyper-lapse mode for the return journey. Despite choosing a rail journey for what was forecast to be a rainy morning, the weather held and we were even treated to a little sunshine through the valley.
Back in town, it was time for lunch. On our wanderings the day before when we were confronted with many a 'Closed' sign, we had happened upon 'Laura's Tearoom', so went to investigate in the hope that they would be open this time for a spot of lunch. We were in luck! And found the tearoom a nice, quiet spot for a sandwich, a pot of tea, and a slice of cake.
Fuelled once more, it was back to the car and on to the afternoon's activity - a visit to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct (still can't pronounce it). I didn't actually know that I'd be nervous until we were pulling up to the carpark and an ever so slight wave of fear hit. But it did make me feel a little better that as we approached the longest and highest aqueduct in the UK, it was ever so slightly reassuring to realise that I wasn't alone in my worries at least according to others who were also planning to walk across, and doubting whether it was such a good idea after all..
We all made it, anyway. And braver still (in my opinion) were the people crossing via the water in kayaks or standing at the back of their narrow boats - no thank you! At least we had a rail on the pedestrian side. While in the area, we loosely followed a walk I had found in a leaflet at the Tourist Information in Llangollen which looked to be a riverside route with a railway viaduct at the other end. Unfortunately it wasn't quite as 'riverside' as I'd hoped with everything that grows up in abundance in the summer, but we did find a decent viewpoint in the woodland on the way back, so it was just about worth it.
Stopped for coffee at a narrowboat serving drinks in the Trevor Basin, then made a move when we thought we could feel a few spots of rain. Back on the balcony for a while before dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant and a short walk to the nearby Horseshoe Falls before bed.
We knew when we booked our trip to Wales that at least one day would be spent in Portmeirion, and with Friday expected to be the best day weather-wise, we thought we'd save it til later in our trip.
The drive from Llangollen took us West towards the coast, through yet more beautiful mountain views (Snowdon featured which was exciting, although I'm not sure we decided which one it was for sure because they all looked so impressive from the roads below), around a spectacular reservoir, and past yet more flocks of sheep.
Although I knew of Portmeirion as 'Italy.. but in Wales', I wasn't otherwise sure what to expect, and found the carpark to ticket booth experience akin to arriving at Universal Studios. As soon as we were into the entrance, I was mesmerised whichever way I looked - from colourful facades on the one side, to the estuary and mountains beyond on the other.
Ditching the map in favour of 'going rogue', we opted for wandering up, down, and along whichever set of steps, narrow pathway, or small archway took our fancy, and spent the best part of the day exploring the village at a gentle pace. Lunch was an antipasti platter (and a local stout for me), and we had another stop later for gelato and sorbet. Otherwise, our wandering took us along the beach and around the headland to the lighthouse, through the woodland walk, around the village, and back into the woodland a little later for viewpoints and to find the 'dancing tree' and Chinese (or Japanese - the signage was conflicted) Garden.
Hard to tear ourselves away, but eventually we did, and chose to head back to Llangollen for dinner (tapas at the Three Eagles) and a sunset walk up and around to Berwyn station and across the hotel's namesake 'chainbridge' on our final evening.
Our last day was mostly for travel, but we did manage to squeeze one last adventure in before departing. As we'd driven into Llangollen on our first day, Ronnie had spotted some ruins at the top of a hill which, upon further investigation at the Tourist Information, turned out to be Castell Dinas Brân, the remains of a medieval castle. Well, as much as I certainly hope to return to Llangollen one day in the not too distant future, it still seemed silly not to pop up there before we went. So we had a mostly very pleasant (and partially very sweaty - we both regretted packing our shorts away) leg stretch and a great view at the top over lots of the places we'd been over the week.
I certainly continue to have really rather lovely holidays in Wales, and am already plotting and planning my return.. Anglesey, I see you.
