A Cornish adventure

It's been so long since I last wrote anything that I'm not sure I'll be able to find my flow - but I'm certainly going to try. Please bear with me.

Not entirely sure what's slowed my writing down of late. I guess life just gets in the way sometimes So, to escape it all and disappear to Cornwall for a few days this Half Term was just what was needed.

'Magical' has been my word of choice when asked how the trip was. The sun, the sky, the sea. The colours, the smells, the sounds. All magical. I feel very lucky to have gone when I did; to get so lucky with the weather, to beat the worst of the summer crowds, and to fit so much in yet to still feel rested. I'm sure there's a reason I'm compelled to write again.

Although I spend a lot of time solo, especially walking, I'd never truly been away on a solo adventure, so this was a first for me and I'm so glad I did it, and can't wait for the next one.

I think St Ives was a particularly good choice for solo travel. It made a great base for the few days I was away for a number of reasons. It felt safe, there was plenty going on, and it was really well connected.

I've taken to driving quite a bit recently, but this time I was back on the train again. And maybe I thought I'd write then, as I had around 5 and a half hours to do so, but instead I spent my time in both directions admiring the view and just.. being. Stopping. Not something I allow myself to do often enough at all. Train travel also meant I was able to enjoy local beers (and the occasional Aperol Spritz) without having to think about responsibility later. And it meant that I didn't have to think about finding parking or driving along tricky roads. 

Instead, I made the most of local buses; of which there are several, and one of them was even open-top (cue the excitement)..

My journey began on the 08:03 from Paddington, which meant I was in St Ives for lunchtime. Dropped my bags at the Airbnb where I was staying (a 15 minute walk from the station.. 'oh, that's nothing', I thought. But my gosh is St Ives / that part of Cornwall generally HILLY. Sure my hosts were really encouraged by the sweaty mess that arrived on their doorstep..), and made my way back down to the harbour in search of food. 

Was hopeful for a crab sandwich (when in Cornwall), but the Cornish Deli had already sold out, so I settled for a Po Boy and a bottle of oat stout instead which I enjoyed on the slipway taking stock of how far I'd come and where I'd ended up. 

With just an afternoon for exploring, I decided to stick to town, and wandered a little further - around the harbour and up to St Ives Head - before heading back to my room for checking in and a bit of a post-journey rest. 

Thought it would be nice to catch the sunset on my first evening so far West. Always one to want to know where the 'best' sunset spots are, I took to Google, and found a description for a 'short walk' to a viewpoint where I'd be away from the crowds and would be rewarded by a wonderful sunset.. well.. in true Laura-on-an-adventure-style, my success was limited. Indeed, one thing I hadn't really factored in was that the sunset in Cornwall was actually half an hour later than sunsets in London because of how far West I actually was. So that meant that setting out for my walk more than an hour before sunset was maybe a bit keen.

Another thing I've really learned about myself this holiday (although I wonder if I already knew at least a little bit before) is that it's not only because of their roundness that I particularly enjoy a circular walk. A straight walk just.. keeps going. And so do I. 

Well, before I knew it, my little legs were tired, and I wasn't really sure where I was going but I knew for sure that I hadn't come across the viewpoint as described on Google. So, my first sunset was enjoyed from the front seat on the top deck of my first local bus. I was relieved on my return to find that fish and chip shops in St Ives stay open fairly late in May, and very much enjoyed a Cornish sausage and chips with a can of pilsner from the Harbour Fish and Chips on a bench back at the harbour again. I'm nothing if not classy.

The next morning, I was up bright and early and off in search of breakfast in town before another journey on the 17 bus - this time to Penzance and on to Newlyn and Mousehole. 

Probably quite unsurprisingly, my coffee from at Sea of Coffee was a good one, and went particularly well with an egg and mushroom bap which I enjoyed with a view while I waited for the bus at the top of the hill overlooking (you've guessed it).. the harbour! 

A little slower than expected (although according to my local guide, not an unexpected delay at all), I was happy enough with my front top seat again (or should that be top front seat?) pootling along through fields with a view of the sea, and felt like the arrival into Penzance happened in no time at all, really.

An eager Sarah waiting to greet me at the bus station was a wonderful sight! And we were soon stomping along the prom through Newlyn - where we encountered several nests housing gull chicks - and on to Mousehole, a place I've wanted to visit since first reading The Mousehole Cat many moons ago.

Pasties on the beach with our toes in the sand did not disappoint. We wandered a little around the harbour (they do really seem to like those in Cornwall), and up through the streets in search of a pathway that I was assured would lead us to a pretty dramatic viewpoint.

Turns out Sarah is much better at finding viewpoints than me. The path was rather overgrown in early Summer, but bramble scratches and nettle stings along the path were deemed worth it as we emerged and were met with the most incredible views from the clifftop over the sea and down to the crashing waves below.

Probably could have stayed all afternoon, but eventually we tore ourselves away and stopped off at The Old Coastguard for an actual swift half before making our way back along the coast path to Newlyn where we enjoyed delicious pasta, excellent wine, and the most incredible Cornish cheeses with Sarah's parents.

I was back at Penzance bus station and on the number 17 all too soon. This time, no front seat available, so I sat at the back like a cool kid with the teenage boys (not quite literally).. did mean I missed yet another sunset, but it was worth it for a day of beautiful adventure in the most wonderful company.

My penultimate day arrived all too soon, but it was a day truly well spent.

Breakfast this time was from Crafted Coffee; another good coffee place (again, probably unsurprising) and with tasty pastries too, I was set for my open-top bus ride and plans to walk some more of the South West Coast Path.

Began with some trepidation as I was met quite early on in my walk by a drunkard also 'exploring' one of the old mines at Levant. Definitely kept me moving a little quicker to begin with, and after traipsing down a fairly long road from the bus stop, I soon found myself on my first stretch of coast path and headed to Botallack.

Definitely worth a visit, and really the main reason why I was drawn to this particular part of Cornwall in the first place (Poldark fans will understand), I had great fun exploring the ruins at Botallack and was pleased to find that although there were a few other tourists doing the same, it was definitely possible to avoid each other in the expanse.

The small café at Botallack only served tea and cake, and I was in need of lunch by this point, so I was directed on to Geevor Mine where I found a panini and a cup of tea to fuel me for my onward journey. 

Having bought an all-day ticket for the bus (the excitement got the better of me), I decided to cheat a little. So I headed back to the coast path to do another short stretch before coming back into the village of Pendeen where I hopped back on the bus as far as Zennor and my walk continued.

Zennor to St Ives was about 6 miles, so I figured I'd be back in time for tea (and this time, I actually was). The sun having made an appearance at this point, I probably could have covered it quicker if not for the fact that I kept stopping every few metres to admire the view at every twist and turn which just continually changed all the way along. I loved the fact that I'd be by myself for long periods, but would occasionally encounter walkers headed in the other direction; from those committed with overnight bags on their backs, to families walking together and even one woman in her sandals (not quite sure how she managed some of the rockier bits, I must say). There were rocks aplenty, and much of the 'walk' was more of a climb which was great fun. I also enjoyed the appearance of streams from time to time as well as just how vast the landscape was on either side. 

St Ives coming into view as I rounded the final headland was a welcome sight. I treated myself to an Aperol Spritz at the beach bar, and headed straight for the sea for a cool (freezing) paddle. 

My final evening, and it was third time lucky for a sunset. Timed my arrival into St Ives just right, and was able to grab some fish and chips at The Balancing Eel (never have I waited so long for fish and chips, but it was worth it) which I took to a spot on the cliffs up by St Nicholas Chapel away from seagulls and fellow tourists. Nothing like the vastness of the sea and a setting sun to put things into perspective. It was perfect (maybe even more so because my phone had finally given up the ghost, and I was forced to just enjoy the moment for once).

I'd booked my return train to London for the afternoon so that I could cram in a little more holiday on the day of checkout. And first on the agenda was a boat trip to see the seals that I was a little too high up to spot the previous day from the coast path above.

It was just myself and two families aboard the Dolly P, which worked out quite well as they were all keen to sit in the centre of the boat to shelter from the sea spray, while I was more than happy to sit at the back of the boat and get a little bit soggy. Our crew were two lifeboatmen which meant we were in more than capable hands, and one also happened to be a marine mammal medic, so was armed with facts a-plenty about the marine life in and around Cornwall. We were lucky enough to see lots of seabirds on our way round the coast, and plenty of seals sunning themselves on the rocks of Seal Island, so it was a trip worth taking.

Back on dry land, the search for crab began again, and this time I was pleased to find The Slipway serving a crab and Cornish cheese toastie which I took down to the beach and ate keeping a very close eye on the approaching tide and greedy gulls. 

Up to this point, I realised I hadn't actually braved the high-street, so I decided to take a wander along it and in and out of the various gift shops for a spot of souvenir shopping. Final stops were to Moomaid of Zennor for dark chocolate sorbet with a fudge stick, and last but not least, to St Ives Brewery for one more local beer with a slightly different view over the harbour, which I could definitely never tire of.

Signs of Spring

The beginning of this week feels like forever ago. I'd like to suggest that such a statement is a sign of a half term very well spent. Like with last February half term, I've actually been walking a lot (surprise, surprise). Unlike last February half term, however, the weather has been glorious for the most part, so I've made sure to get plenty of doses of Vitamin D.

My holiday this year actually began a day early, on the Friday. An extra day gave me time to prepare for the arrival of Ma and Pa for a weekend stay, and also led me on a new walk from Hammersmith to Barnes along yet another new stretch of the Thames Path. As I wandered through a wooded path, looking across the river at only a handful of buildings, I definitely felt like I'd escaped the City. I also found myself a new reservoir, and got a little lost on Barnes Common resulting in very muddy shoes. Sign of an excellent wander, I felt!

Unfortunately the weekend then offered very little sunshine (apart from on Sunday, when we were mostly inside enjoying a pub roast at the Pig & Whistle), but instead thick grey cloud, a little wind, and even some rain. Unperturbed, we took a trip down memory lane and along the river to Putney on the Saturday, around Wimbledon Park on the Sunday, and into Richmond on the Monday. We saw the tide at both its highest and lowest that I've ever seen it before, and made our way a little further down the river at Richmond than I have before, to Richmond Lock and Weir.

On Tuesday, I met up with an old colleague, and good friend. Stuart and I walked from Waterloo along the South Bank, headed for a new rooftop garden that had opened only a day or so before. The Garden at 120 Fenchurch Street was a very pleasant alternative to the neighbouring Sky Garden. Lower down, you're amongst the buildings as opposed to looking down on them. It's open air, too, and yet the surrounding glass provides a barrier against noise pollution from below. I definitely want to return with my book. The peace was surreal, and quite the contrast from the hoards also walking along this particular stretch of the Thames.

Wednesday I chose to go into school for some much needed organising. I walked to and from in the sunshine, and left feeling very accomplished.

Thursday was my first proper chance for a lie-in. I took full advantage of this, and had a much slower day. Never one to waste sunshine, however, I headed out for a shorter walk in the early evening as the sun began to set. Having already headed in the direction of Putney earlier in the week, I dragged Paul in the direction of Battersea. We didn't get that far, for fear of the light disappearing, and there was a short stop as I geeked out over a helicopter taking off from the London Heliport.

I made my first journey on the Overground in what felt like forever on Friday. I still can't quite get over the contrast between East and South West London, so was grateful to be headed back to Hackney for a haircut and a lunch date. It was lovely to wander in and out of vintage shops, and past many a graffitied wall.

This weekend has been the first in about 3 weeks that we haven't had any guests to stay. Yesterday we did our fair share of socialising, but today has been all about lazing around for a proper PJ day. We've done a little organising here and there, in between sitting on the sofa with several cups of tea.

Edinburgh

Up and out with the commuters on Monday morning, our journey was not without drama as I had my first experience of pulling the passenger alarm on the District Line (fear not, all was well). We made our train from Kings Cross in good time, though, and made ourselves comfortable in our reserved seats.

'No toasters or hairdryers please!'

I decided that a playlist of Scottish bands was the only appropriate choice, and settled quickly into my new Morse with accompaniment from Frightened Rabbit and The Xcerts.

The train journey was relatively smooth, and offered some beautiful views across the sea as we neared the coast. Once into Edinburgh, we quickly found a taxi and made our way to Kingsford Residence where we were staying (would highly recommend if you, like us, are fancying self-catering for a change).

Practicalities out of the way (unpacking - check! Food shop - check!), fuelled by a cup of tea and armed with the city map, we were ready to venture out. As luck may have it, I actually have three friends who have spent time living in Edinburgh and they kindly offered an extensive list of recommendations which gave us a very comfortable starting point.

With only half a day to explore on our arrival, we opted for a walk along the Leith Water from where we were staying to Dean Village. We found that a small section of the footpath was actually closed, so a slight detour at the offset had us doubting just how much of the river we would actually see, but once we were back on track, we were blown away by just how pretty and magical everything looked.

Dean Village itself was like stepping back in time, or maybe out of this world, and into the world of Mildred Hubble, or Harry Potter. Early evening at this point, we were also struck by how quiet the area was. We were in the company of a handful of tourists, and the occasional local on a run or a dog walk, but otherwise it was almost eerie at times.

Glad to have stretched our legs after sitting for so long on our morning train journey, we were also grateful when we found The Huxley, a pub stop with a fine selection of Scottish beers. The first evening then became a short pub crawl, as we went on to Captain's Bar for some live music, and ended up at The Regent where we tried haggis for the first time (on Nachos. So I feel like it might be cheating?).

Wind battering us between each of our pub stops, we walked at quite a pace to keep warm. Didn't really get our bearings in the dark, but tomorrow brings a full day of exploring the city, so maybe we'll get our heads around it a bit more..

Our second day began with cheese & ham croissants, orange juice, and a playlist of Glasvegas, Belle & Sebastian and The Aliens.

With a full day to explore, we decided to start off with a climb up to Arthur's Seat. Strong winds, blazing sun, and neither of us exactly at peak fitness, we took a steady pace with plenty of stops to take a photo or remove another layer of clothing (or maybe, if we're honest, just to catch our breath). Up at the top, the experience of trying to take in the panoramic views without being blown over the edge to become a part of them was quite something.

Back at the bottom, we decided that we were in need of a seated break so headed for another recommendation, Spoon. Here we thoroughly enjoyed a tasty brunch and formulated some kind of plan for the rest of our day.

I guess we must have decided that we were feeling rejuvenated enough after some refreshment, as from Spoon we then made our way back into the city and up yet another hill. Admittedly not anywhere near as epic a climb as Arthur's Seat, the views from the top of Calton Hill were possibly even better as we looked across the city, out to sea, and back to where we'd begun our day.

We took a quick detour into the nearby Old Calton Burial Ground (I never can resist a gravestone) as we made our way back into the city in search of a pub for another rest stop. Just off Prince's Street, we stumbled upon The Guildford with a revolving door and a fantastic selection of beers bottled and on tap. Just in time for the tail end of their Autumn beer festival, I enjoyed a pumpkin ale and the choice of at least three stouts. We also found a new favourite bar snack (salami and chorizo cuts) that it turned out are actually made in Norwich!

When we eventually emerged, the sun was setting, which actually made for the perfect pretty lighting as we wandered through the Old Town and on to the Castle (yep, up another hill) where we admired an alternative view of Edinburgh from the courtyard.

The rest of the evening was spent aimlessly wandering along the scenic route to Checkpoint where we had an early dinner and enjoyed another beer or two. One more pub stop, then we were 'homeward' bound for an earlier night in preparation for our early start the next morning.

For our second full day, we'd decided to get out of the city and booked a Highlands tour with Rabbie's. Our tour was due to leave at 9am so we were up and out bright and early to make our way to the meeting point.

Our tour driver was Jim, and he kept us plenty entertained throughout the day with his guided commentary and accompanying playlist.

It was truly special driving along narrow, twisting roads between each stop, all lined with trees in every shade of green, yellow, brown, and red. Our first stop was for a wander through Dunkeld; strictly a city because of its having a cathedral, but probably in truth a small and quaint village on the River Tay.

Next we stopped at The Hermitage for a woodland walk leading to a waterfall. If the leaves had looked impressive from the road, they were even more marvellous to walk beneath. With the path following the river to our left, we were reminded of our forest walks in Exmoor but were glad that the Scottish weather was actually being kinder than we had expected!

Our next stop was for lunch in the town of Pitlochry, made famous by Queen Victoria who had apparently chosen to holiday there once upon a time. There wasn't much to be said for Pitlochry, but we did enjoy our second attempt at Haggis, this time with neeps (mashed turnip) and tatties (mashed potato), and a delicious whisky sauce. Jim had also suggested that we might like to try some genuine whisky ice cream for dessert, so full of haggis we wandered on to the sweet shop to give it a try.

Back on the bus, the post-food slump hit us hard but the views out of the window were getting better and better, so we resisted the urge to sleep. Our final stop was Dewar's Aberfeldy whisky distillery, but we took one extra stop en route at the Queen's View over Loch Tummel which was absolutely stunning.

On to the distillery, excitement was mounting. As we got off the bus, our senses were assaulted by the sweetness (and occasional dampness) emanating from the chimneys. We were given a tour of the premises before being given the opportunity to taste two different whiskies. Being the wimp that I am when it comes to spirits, and my throat still burning from the first dram, my second was tried as part of a whisky cocktail.

The journey back to Edinburgh was spent napping with intermittent singalongs to The Proclaimers and Scotland's many unofficial National Anthems. Once back in the city we headed back to our apartment for a night of oven-cooked pizza, beers and card games with sounds from Idlewild (who by some unimaginable miracle, we'd actually forgotten about until this point).

Our final morning arrived all too soon. Check-out was at half 10 and our train was at half 12 so having checked out and left our luggage, we took a fairly short circular walk to find a couple more points of interest before bidding farewell to the city.

Unashamed Instagram lover, I've seen endless photos of Circus Lane and have become a huge fan of mews since living in London, so obviously I had to go and find it. It looked gorgeous in the sunshine and was a beautifully peaceful spot.

From here we then made our way back to Prince's Street to investigate 'the toilet of Edinburgh' (one of Jim's many stories of the city) and for a different view of the castle before circling back to gather our bags and meet our taxi.

The train journey home ran even smoother than the outbound journey had done, and we sat on the other side so got a closer view of the sea and various stops through the window. It's been a treat to get away for a few days. Hoping we've breathed in enough Scottish air to last us at least a few days back in the Big Smoke..