Valencia

Bit of a Love Actually moment at the airport as we hurtled our way along endless walkways and travellators to a gate due to close in 1 minute. Not in pursuit of a love interest, we were just wanting to make our flight, which we did... just. Received lots of glares from staff and fellow passengers as we boarded the plane, although on the bright side, we had only been seated about 5 minutes before we were making our way to the runway (not that I'd recommend it. Stress probably out-weighed the slight bonus). Better late than never!

A smooth flight passed in next to no time before we were landing in Valencia. No wall of heat as we disembarked, but bright sun and something in the air that told us we were abroad.

Our apartment was only a short taxi ride from the airport, and we then found a coffee in a local café while we waited for check-in.

Unpacked in our respective rooms, we headed straight out to explore our surroundings and make the most of the day! It wasn't long before we came across a bakery for some lunch al fresco. Driven on by chills after food (al fresco seating was in the shade, and the streets of Valencia do seem rather to form wind tunnels), we carried on into the Old Town to see what points of interest we could find. Lots of wandering in the direction of pretty looking buildings and streets ended up taking us looping this way and that. 

Eventually we decided we needed to formulate some kind of plan, so having wandered into the Turia Gardens (a lovely green space set in the former river bed of the Turia River, diverted after flooding in the 1950s), we stopped at a café to peruse the map over hot drinks and churros.

Keen, as always, to climb a tower for a view to get our bearings, we ascended the 207 steps to the top of Torre del Micalet in the Valencia Cathedral. We were met with mountains in one direction, the sea in another, and a real mix of buildings both new and old (many of the old with the blue tiled domes that we'd spotted here and there on our wanderings).

Sun shining by this point, we spent a while basking in the warmth and the view before the chime of a rather large (thus loud) bell had us pinned against the safety railings, bringing us rudely back to reality and the arrival of 7pm. Back at the bottom, we retraced our steps to familiarity, now in search of tapas and sangria.

We found a bar slightly off the beaten track and popular with locals, where we enjoyed a selection including aubergine with honey, Padron peppers (always a firm favourite), mini chorizo, anchovies in vinegar, and ibérico croquets.

Back to the apartment via the supermarket where we stocked up on breakfast bits, we formulated some kind of a plan for Day Two before bed.

Returning back to the apartment for our second evening, we've still not got our bearings. Valencia is a city full of diagonals, and no route seems straight forward!  Sunshine forecast with very little cloud, we decided to head to the beach for a day. A slightly restless night meant most of us allowed ourselves a lie-in, so our day had a relaxed start.

We opted for a beach a few km South of the city at El Saler. Supposedly, the route was fairly straightforward. One bus (the 25) from the City Centre. Upon arrival at the bus stop, the sign informed us that our wait for the next bus was 16 minutes. We stood, we waited, the time didn't change. After at least 16 minutes of waiting, the sign had instead gone up to read 21 minutes. We took this as our cue to give up, and hailed a taxi instead.

After a slight detour (El Saler is apparently also the name of a shopping area in the city), we arrived at the beach. Home of the paella, we had to try some! We ordered the chicken on recommendation, and cod croquets while we waited. Sitting in the sun, sipping more sangria, we felt truly in 'holiday mode'.

Following our leisurely lunch, we headed along a pine-lined path (the smell was heavenly) to the beach. Shoes off on the edge like we were entering someone's house, the sand was pleasantly warm and felt good between the toes. The sea was a gorgeous light to dark blue from the shallows to the depths, and there were several container ships on the horizon. 

Of course, I headed straight for the water. 'Refreshing', was my verdict. Along the sand we walked and talked, sitting for a while at the base of a dune listening to the waves crashing, watching the world go by. Ready again for food (when on holiday), we decided to head back into the city.

Thought we'd give the bus another go, and were pleased this time to find as we reached the stop that there was only a 4 minute wait for the next one. Our hearts sank, however, as on its approach we read 'COMPLET' on the front of the bus. On it drove, and the sign at the stop changed to 33 minutes. Time passed pleasantly enough though, and we were soon on the next bus.

Wanting to explore some more of the Turia Gardens, we alighted to walk through and on in search of food. Still very much on British time, we struggled for a while to find anywhere open with more than drinks on offer. Eventually though, we found somewhere with an interesting menu where we stopped and I enjoyed diced chicken in a peanut sauce on black spaghetti. 

While at dinner, we made a plan to go on a walking tour for Day Three, then headed back for an early night before alarms in the morning. 

Our walking tour was due to begin at 10am, so full of a hearty breakfast we made our way to the meeting point. In Plaça de la Verge, we looked out for obvious signs of a tour, but to no avail. Soon identifying other lost-looking tourists, we gathered together and waited.

Tour guides came and went, but not for the company that we were all very sure we'd booked with, Valencia & Go. When eventually our guide arrived, she informed us that two were down to one, so she'd had to reschedule our tour for the afternoon.  

With a couple of hours to kill we sat a while in a café in the square with a drink and a view to find somewhere to go nearby. We settled on The Serranos Gate (once one of twelve gates that formed part of the ancient city walls), only a short walk from where we would be meeting the guide once again. A few less steps to climb, and with lower levels for stopping a while, we enjoyed the panoramic views.

Back at the bottom, we wandered a while along pretty streets, stopping for small snacks to tide us over until lunch after the tour. I opted for a pastry with walnuts and raisins served on an edible paper plate (I did have to check the 'edible' part with our guide when we re-joined her).

Our walking tour took us mostly around the old city, and it was good to find out a little more about buildings which we'd now encountered a few times on our wanderings. Our tour ended with a taste of the nuts used in Spanish Horchata (a tiger nut, I believe), and as were then right outside the Horchateria, we chose to pop in for refreshment and a seat before we carried on with our day.

Via the train station which we scouted out in order to leave our bags on our final day, we made our way to L'umbracle, which we'd seen from the bus the previous day. Another amble through the Turia Gardens brought us to the modern part of the city. Here we stayed a while, admiring 80's architecture, sniffing roses, and taking great delight in people watching.

Clouds starting to gather, we hopped back on the bus into the Old Town. Despite its not truly being a traditional Valencian drink, we were still keen to try Agua de Valencia, a dangerous mix of orange juice, bubbles, gin, and vodka. We'd been recommended a particular square of bars by our guide earlier in the day, so found our way back there for an aperitif. Soon feeling that lovely 'warm glow', we went yet again in search of food.

Re-tracing our steps (seemed to be the only reliable way to find our way around), we found our way back to the restaurant where we had enjoyed tapas on our first night. This evening's selection included smoked sardine fillet, fried cheese, Russian salad, garlic prawns, roasted red peppers, and spicy chicken wings.

The journey back to the apartment was still aided by a map, but was finally beginning to feel a little more familiar. Upon reaching the apartment, we enjoyed a few cups of tea and a several games of Dobble before bed.

Check-out was at 11am, so we had a relatively relaxed start to our day. All ready to go, we pulled our cases along to the station where we'd sussed out the Left Luggage the day before. While there, we decided to investigate the old First Class waiting room which was beautifully decorated in traditional ceramic tiling.

Maundy Thursday meant a Holy Day for Valencia, so lots of places usually with an entrance fee were free for the day. We managed to visit the Silk Exchange before lunch, as recommended by our guide the previous day who we actually bumped into as we entered. 

Having wandered around the different rooms once bustling with bankers and tradespeople, we found ourselves a light lunch of sandwiches in a café with indoor seating (hard to find in a city usually bathed in sunshine) as the rain was looming, and it was a little chilly with the sun behind the clouds.

After lunch we went in search of another recommendation; the church of Saint Nicolas. Here we took an audio tour around the chapels, taking plenty of time to admire the stunning architecture and decoration inside.

Back outside, the rain had arrived. As well as free entry, Maundy Thursday also meant that many places closed at 3pm, so were somewhat limited for time. In want of entertainment, but also somewhere to stay dry, we decided to go for the ultimate team-building experience (could have been rather a risk at the end of a holiday) and try an Escape Room. 

The Exit was a short walk away, and we were pleased to find that they had no bookings for the day, so we were able to try their Prison Break Escape Room. Found a nearby café for fuel while they set the room up for us, then headed back to try our luck (or perhaps that should be skill). Padlock combinations and hidden keys a-plenty, we finally made our break for freedom with just under a minute to spare then made our way back to the station with one final café stop (and lots of admiring of street art) along the way.

The airport was a short taxi ride from the station, so we arrived in plenty of time. Quite in contrast to Gatwick, we were able to walk the full length of the airport twice, order food and drinks, and enjoy them with ample time to spare before our flight. 

No bridge or bus to our plane, when we finally came to board the rain was torrential, and the mad dash across the concourse was a wet one. We were greeted by a complementary paper towel, which was a new experience for me.

It was agreed all round that a few days in Valencia was just what we needed. Plenty to do, and despite rain at the end, we were very lucky with the weather. Friendly people, good prices, it's definitely a good place to be for a short break. Now the countdown begins to the next holiday!

Signs of Spring

The beginning of this week feels like forever ago. I'd like to suggest that such a statement is a sign of a half term very well spent. Like with last February half term, I've actually been walking a lot (surprise, surprise). Unlike last February half term, however, the weather has been glorious for the most part, so I've made sure to get plenty of doses of Vitamin D.

My holiday this year actually began a day early, on the Friday. An extra day gave me time to prepare for the arrival of Ma and Pa for a weekend stay, and also led me on a new walk from Hammersmith to Barnes along yet another new stretch of the Thames Path. As I wandered through a wooded path, looking across the river at only a handful of buildings, I definitely felt like I'd escaped the City. I also found myself a new reservoir, and got a little lost on Barnes Common resulting in very muddy shoes. Sign of an excellent wander, I felt!

Unfortunately the weekend then offered very little sunshine (apart from on Sunday, when we were mostly inside enjoying a pub roast at the Pig & Whistle), but instead thick grey cloud, a little wind, and even some rain. Unperturbed, we took a trip down memory lane and along the river to Putney on the Saturday, around Wimbledon Park on the Sunday, and into Richmond on the Monday. We saw the tide at both its highest and lowest that I've ever seen it before, and made our way a little further down the river at Richmond than I have before, to Richmond Lock and Weir.

On Tuesday, I met up with an old colleague, and good friend. Stuart and I walked from Waterloo along the South Bank, headed for a new rooftop garden that had opened only a day or so before. The Garden at 120 Fenchurch Street was a very pleasant alternative to the neighbouring Sky Garden. Lower down, you're amongst the buildings as opposed to looking down on them. It's open air, too, and yet the surrounding glass provides a barrier against noise pollution from below. I definitely want to return with my book. The peace was surreal, and quite the contrast from the hoards also walking along this particular stretch of the Thames.

Wednesday I chose to go into school for some much needed organising. I walked to and from in the sunshine, and left feeling very accomplished.

Thursday was my first proper chance for a lie-in. I took full advantage of this, and had a much slower day. Never one to waste sunshine, however, I headed out for a shorter walk in the early evening as the sun began to set. Having already headed in the direction of Putney earlier in the week, I dragged Paul in the direction of Battersea. We didn't get that far, for fear of the light disappearing, and there was a short stop as I geeked out over a helicopter taking off from the London Heliport.

I made my first journey on the Overground in what felt like forever on Friday. I still can't quite get over the contrast between East and South West London, so was grateful to be headed back to Hackney for a haircut and a lunch date. It was lovely to wander in and out of vintage shops, and past many a graffitied wall.

This weekend has been the first in about 3 weeks that we haven't had any guests to stay. Yesterday we did our fair share of socialising, but today has been all about lazing around for a proper PJ day. We've done a little organising here and there, in between sitting on the sofa with several cups of tea.

Reading in 2018

There are many places that I like to read. Right now, in winter, there's nowhere better than curled up in bed with a massive cup of tea on a Sunday morning, or under a blanket in a corner of the sofa, under a lamp with a candle burning. In 2018, I read books on pebbled beaches in Dorset, on sun loungers under the blazing sun in Thailand, on many a train and plane, in the garden on the sunnier days, on bits of wall along the Thames Path, and, more often than not, in the comfort of home.

I think I was a bit slow to get through a few of my reads in the last year, as I only seem to have managed about 9 books (and a couple of travel guides in between). Of course the pile of Murder Mysteries remains the biggest, but I did make a point of trying to branch out a little this year, and have allowed popular opinion to lead me in a different direction on a few occasions.

This year's travel companion was another Daisy Dalrymple by Carola Dunn; The Winter Garden Mystery. I thoroughly enjoy escaping into Daisy's world, and it was even more satisfying than usual to be reading a book with a wintry setting as I lounged around in temperatures reaching 40 and above in Thailand. Poolside, beaches, and the many plane journeys provided ample opportunities to indulge in my reading, and as ever I loved the glamour of life in 1920s England.

The City of Lost Dreams is the sequel to The City of Dark Magic by Magnus Flyte, which I read and loved in 2017. I couldn't wait to get my hands on the second, and when I ordered it online I had to get myself a copy of the first book, too (yes, I'm one of those terrible book hoarders, because obviously I'll re-read them at some point...) The City of Lost Dreams did not disappoint, and was just as crazy as the first with many a dramatic twist and unexpected turn. This time set in Vienna, I was definitely left wanting to visit.

Not yet torn away from murder, mystery, and intrigue, my third book of the year was a recommendation from a friend who knows all about my penchant; The Mitford Murders by Jessica Fellowes (niece of Julian Fellowes). Like with the two before, I loved the setting, and as with The Winter Garden Mystery, the time period was perfect for escapism. Slightly twee at times, this was an easy read with likeable characters and it definitely hit a fairly dramatic climax towards the end.

A big fan of Dawn O'Porter's Instagram stories, her newest book The Cows was brought to my attention via the powers of Social Media, and I was drawn in. Glad I was because this was definitely one of my favourite reads of the year, and not murder mystery! The story is told from the perspective of three women whose lives intertwine in interesting ways. Books this year taught me that I'll most enjoy reading about likeable or relatable characters, and the women in this book tested this at times. Yet somehow I definitely found myself very invested in them, and plot twists had just the right amount of shock and awe. More Dawn O'Porter on the list for 2019, I think!

Submarine, I discovered after reading, was actually written by a fellow UEA student, Joe Dunthorne. This fact in itself makes me like it a little bit more, but it was probably the first book of the year that I almost put down. Personally I just found the protagonist really unrelatable, and slightly irritating. There was something of the nostalgic about Submarine (although I'm not entirely sure whether it was nostalgia of the right kind; awkward teenage encounters may be better left in the box of forgotten memories). Apparently a sucker for a good setting, I really liked the sound of the Welsh coast. This was a book that came out on lots of walks and daytrips with me, so I at least read it in lots of nice places.

Matt Haig was another recommendation from several people, and I opted for How to Stop Time because, I'm ashamed to admit (although I've definitely admitted it before) that I love a good front cover. Another character who I didn't feel was particularly relatable, I also found that this book was far too slow and soppy for my liking. Turns out I'm not a fan of romance, or wistful memoirs. I did make it to the end, though, and thought it ended well, which is something?

Another close contender for favourite book of the year, Eleanor Oliphant is Completely Fine by Gail Honeyman was, I thought, absolutely fantastic. Eleanor was relatable (possibly slightly worrying), and definitely incredibly lovable. This book was full of reality (sometimes harsh), and the narrative made for really easy reading while there was still an air of intrigue which kept me on my toes and wanting to come back for more. I was really disappointed to discover that this was Gail Honeyman's debut, as I'm very keen to read more from her!

Having thoroughly enjoyed my first Morse last year, I found the second in the series (decided I'd been away from murder for far too long); Last Seen Wearing. I really like the way Colin Dexter writes, and love Morse as a character. Thankfully either I haven't seen enough of the TV series, or it was long enough ago, that I don't ever remember whodunnit, and find myself trying to unpick the puzzle with Morse along the way. I'll happily add another to my collection in 2019 (like I can resist a golden spine…)

My final book of the year was another recommendation. This time, it was JK Rowling's pseudonym, Robert Galbraith. I went for the first in the Cormoran Strike series, The Cuckoo's Calling. Initially, I wasn't sure what I thought of Strike but him and his assistant Robin definitely warmed on me as I read on. It was a long read, and there was maybe a little too much dialogue for me, but I was kept intrigued throughout, and got particularly into the story as it came to its climax.

I've begun 2019 with another murder mystery that takes place at sea. Two weeks into the year, and I'm already half way through this one, and adding to my seemingly never-ending reading list. I look forward to finding more new material, as well as returning to the comfort of some old favourites, as always.

A dose of Vitamin D

I don't want to appear ungrateful for what I suppose are actually ideal weather conditions (dry, mild, still), but I did get incredibly excited when I noticed that the sun was actually shining in through the window this morning. Yes of course, I've managed plenty of walks over the Christmas holidays, but the sunny ones have been particularly lovely.

Before escaping to Norfolk for a few days over Christmas itself, the sun shone for my annual Christmas Tree Crawl which took me the full distance across London from Gloucester Road to Tower Hill.

Since then, the sun has not really made an appearance. Instead, I have walked along beaches, through woodland, across heath, and over fields (sort of) in the grey. It's still been bracing and a good opportunity for catch ups, though. Isn't walking just the best?

Today was the first day of the holiday that I had nothing planned. So, as soon as I'd ascertained that the sunshine was due to last, I decided it was a definitely a good day for a proper walk. For inspiration, I turned to my copy of '33 Walks in London That You Shouldn't Miss' and found a nice long walk that would take me from Chiswick to Kew. 

I'd actually done part of this walk before when I explored Chiswick House and Gardens in the summer. I can't remember if I ran out of time or energy then, but I took the abbreviated route. Today however, I took time to explore a few of the suburban streets surrounding Turnham Green Station. The architecture is a fascinating mix as cottage-style homes stand next to red brick blocks of flats. Zig-zagging along one street and then another, I spent a while ooh-ing, aah-ing, and generally wishing I had a lot more money.

Back towards and beyond the station, I found The Old Cinema; a treasure trove full of beautiful antique furniture. Always keen for a browse, I spent yet more time ooh-ing, aah-ing, and wishing for more money (even in the sale, vintage / antiques in London have me wanting to run back to the affordable climes of Norwich).

The walk to Chiswick House and Gardens took me past yet more suburban bliss before I was suddenly assaulted by the M4. Here I remembered the way via the underpass, and along the drive which at this time of year was lined with the hope of Spring in the form of Snowdrops.

In August, the conservatory was fairly bare as I'd missed the Camellia's flowering period, so it was especially nice to be back in season to see the variegations on show. I seem to remember being disappointed by the weather on my last visit, so guaranteed blue sky and sunshine was also a proper treat.

The next part of my walk was less than scenic as I was forced this time to walk alongside a fairly busy road. I'm officially rubbish, also, at metres as a point of reference. Tell me what physical features to look out for, or perhaps how long I might have been walking for, but don't tell me that 'after 500m' I will take a turning. It puts me on edge! 500m is further than I would expect it to be, anyway, and this stretch of road felt a little endless but eventually I came to signs of the Thames, and knew I was back on track.

I wandered cautiously along the Thames Path through Chiswick Quay (slightly perturbed by 'Private' signs here, there, and everywhere) and beyond to my final stop of the day, Strand-on-the-Green, which may now have my vote as the prettiest part of the Thames Path, and definitely somewhere I'd like to re-visit when the weather is warmer and I'm frequenting pubs again.

From this lovely little stretch of river, I headed over Kew Bridge and towards Kew Gardens Station via yet more sumptuous suburbia (my appreciation of which suggests I really am getting old) where I'd be hopping back on the Tube to make my journey home.

I hadn't technically forgotten about lunch, but I do have a habit of walking without stopping very much (especially when it's as incredibly cold as it was today, despite sunshine), so it wasn't until the end of my journey that I finally did have a sit down and a little something to eat. I've often passed and wanted to try The Kew Greenhouse, and on a random Friday in early January it wasn't too busy, so I fuelled myself with mac & cheese before making my way home.

Still lots more walks to have an explore of, and another whole year ahead of me. Here's hoping for more sunshine!

A circular walk in Castle Combe

This time last year I was in Bath for a Hen Party. This time this year I was in Bath again for catch ups over gin, walking, and a lot of food.

Today Nic and I visited the village of Castle Combe where I've been wanting to explore for some time. It was a short drive from Bath and when we arrived we soon found a place to park, from where we could then walk into the village itself.

Even before midday, the central street was bustling with a various mix of tourists; families old and young, dog walkers, and a slightly odd number of groups of women around our age. We chose not to linger, but instead began a circular walk out of and around the village that we'd found online the night before.

Armed with a fairly simple map, and some written instructions (always a bit of a challenge in my experience), we followed 'The Street' through the centre of the village before taking a footbridge to cross a small brook into a field full of donkeys that sounded and looked deceptively like sheep from a distance (closer inspection told us that our initial instincts were wrong).

The combination of glorious sunshine and an uphill path along the top of the field and into woodland kept us so warm that coats came off (in November!?). Our instructions told us to look out for gates with stiles which we were pleased to find; and crossed them into a lane leading us through a small hamlet of beautiful mill houses backing onto the brook.

Several pathways had us kicking up more than a few leaves; a welcome reminder of the Autumn which I think has felt especially long and glorious this year! At the end of one particularly leafy path, we came into a field full of actual sheep this time, and carefully made our way through, eyes on the ground at all times in a bid to avoid excessive amounts of poop.

Out of the field, we were back on the road and heading for yet another field and more woodland (there was definitely a theme going on). Our final uphill path was the steepest yet and had us both slipping and sliding, huffing and puffing. Once at the top, the views over trees in all sorts of colours in the low Autumn sun were fairly special.

Having done a pretty good job of following our instructions up to this point, it was here that we took a wrong turn and suddenly found that our circuit had been cut short. Tummies rumbling, we decided that we were actually back in the village in perfect time and enjoyed tea, paninis, and some cake in the Stables Coffee Shop.

Hunger satisfied, we decided to investigate the bit of circular walk we'd missed, but backwards. Once on the path again, we realised that it might just lead us back to the car park. So we followed along the edge of a golf course before coming out between a little row of houses that we'd seen earlier in the day, and were soon back on familiar ground and headed to the car.

Like last year, I managed a spot of Christmas shopping in Bath itself this afternoon and then there was just time for dinner before I had to catch my train. We're not sure how I do it, but I do seem to get lucky with the weather on my visits, and with the loveliest company, too, today was another truly beautiful day.