A circular walk in Castle Combe

This time last year I was in Bath for a Hen Party. This time this year I was in Bath again for catch ups over gin, walking, and a lot of food.

Today Nic and I visited the village of Castle Combe where I've been wanting to explore for some time. It was a short drive from Bath and when we arrived we soon found a place to park, from where we could then walk into the village itself.

Even before midday, the central street was bustling with a various mix of tourists; families old and young, dog walkers, and a slightly odd number of groups of women around our age. We chose not to linger, but instead began a circular walk out of and around the village that we'd found online the night before.

Armed with a fairly simple map, and some written instructions (always a bit of a challenge in my experience), we followed 'The Street' through the centre of the village before taking a footbridge to cross a small brook into a field full of donkeys that sounded and looked deceptively like sheep from a distance (closer inspection told us that our initial instincts were wrong).

The combination of glorious sunshine and an uphill path along the top of the field and into woodland kept us so warm that coats came off (in November!?). Our instructions told us to look out for gates with stiles which we were pleased to find; and crossed them into a lane leading us through a small hamlet of beautiful mill houses backing onto the brook.

Several pathways had us kicking up more than a few leaves; a welcome reminder of the Autumn which I think has felt especially long and glorious this year! At the end of one particularly leafy path, we came into a field full of actual sheep this time, and carefully made our way through, eyes on the ground at all times in a bid to avoid excessive amounts of poop.

Out of the field, we were back on the road and heading for yet another field and more woodland (there was definitely a theme going on). Our final uphill path was the steepest yet and had us both slipping and sliding, huffing and puffing. Once at the top, the views over trees in all sorts of colours in the low Autumn sun were fairly special.

Having done a pretty good job of following our instructions up to this point, it was here that we took a wrong turn and suddenly found that our circuit had been cut short. Tummies rumbling, we decided that we were actually back in the village in perfect time and enjoyed tea, paninis, and some cake in the Stables Coffee Shop.

Hunger satisfied, we decided to investigate the bit of circular walk we'd missed, but backwards. Once on the path again, we realised that it might just lead us back to the car park. So we followed along the edge of a golf course before coming out between a little row of houses that we'd seen earlier in the day, and were soon back on familiar ground and headed to the car.

Like last year, I managed a spot of Christmas shopping in Bath itself this afternoon and then there was just time for dinner before I had to catch my train. We're not sure how I do it, but I do seem to get lucky with the weather on my visits, and with the loveliest company, too, today was another truly beautiful day.

Edinburgh

Up and out with the commuters on Monday morning, our journey was not without drama as I had my first experience of pulling the passenger alarm on the District Line (fear not, all was well). We made our train from Kings Cross in good time, though, and made ourselves comfortable in our reserved seats.

'No toasters or hairdryers please!'

I decided that a playlist of Scottish bands was the only appropriate choice, and settled quickly into my new Morse with accompaniment from Frightened Rabbit and The Xcerts.

The train journey was relatively smooth, and offered some beautiful views across the sea as we neared the coast. Once into Edinburgh, we quickly found a taxi and made our way to Kingsford Residence where we were staying (would highly recommend if you, like us, are fancying self-catering for a change).

Practicalities out of the way (unpacking - check! Food shop - check!), fuelled by a cup of tea and armed with the city map, we were ready to venture out. As luck may have it, I actually have three friends who have spent time living in Edinburgh and they kindly offered an extensive list of recommendations which gave us a very comfortable starting point.

With only half a day to explore on our arrival, we opted for a walk along the Leith Water from where we were staying to Dean Village. We found that a small section of the footpath was actually closed, so a slight detour at the offset had us doubting just how much of the river we would actually see, but once we were back on track, we were blown away by just how pretty and magical everything looked.

Dean Village itself was like stepping back in time, or maybe out of this world, and into the world of Mildred Hubble, or Harry Potter. Early evening at this point, we were also struck by how quiet the area was. We were in the company of a handful of tourists, and the occasional local on a run or a dog walk, but otherwise it was almost eerie at times.

Glad to have stretched our legs after sitting for so long on our morning train journey, we were also grateful when we found The Huxley, a pub stop with a fine selection of Scottish beers. The first evening then became a short pub crawl, as we went on to Captain's Bar for some live music, and ended up at The Regent where we tried haggis for the first time (on Nachos. So I feel like it might be cheating?).

Wind battering us between each of our pub stops, we walked at quite a pace to keep warm. Didn't really get our bearings in the dark, but tomorrow brings a full day of exploring the city, so maybe we'll get our heads around it a bit more..

Our second day began with cheese & ham croissants, orange juice, and a playlist of Glasvegas, Belle & Sebastian and The Aliens.

With a full day to explore, we decided to start off with a climb up to Arthur's Seat. Strong winds, blazing sun, and neither of us exactly at peak fitness, we took a steady pace with plenty of stops to take a photo or remove another layer of clothing (or maybe, if we're honest, just to catch our breath). Up at the top, the experience of trying to take in the panoramic views without being blown over the edge to become a part of them was quite something.

Back at the bottom, we decided that we were in need of a seated break so headed for another recommendation, Spoon. Here we thoroughly enjoyed a tasty brunch and formulated some kind of plan for the rest of our day.

I guess we must have decided that we were feeling rejuvenated enough after some refreshment, as from Spoon we then made our way back into the city and up yet another hill. Admittedly not anywhere near as epic a climb as Arthur's Seat, the views from the top of Calton Hill were possibly even better as we looked across the city, out to sea, and back to where we'd begun our day.

We took a quick detour into the nearby Old Calton Burial Ground (I never can resist a gravestone) as we made our way back into the city in search of a pub for another rest stop. Just off Prince's Street, we stumbled upon The Guildford with a revolving door and a fantastic selection of beers bottled and on tap. Just in time for the tail end of their Autumn beer festival, I enjoyed a pumpkin ale and the choice of at least three stouts. We also found a new favourite bar snack (salami and chorizo cuts) that it turned out are actually made in Norwich!

When we eventually emerged, the sun was setting, which actually made for the perfect pretty lighting as we wandered through the Old Town and on to the Castle (yep, up another hill) where we admired an alternative view of Edinburgh from the courtyard.

The rest of the evening was spent aimlessly wandering along the scenic route to Checkpoint where we had an early dinner and enjoyed another beer or two. One more pub stop, then we were 'homeward' bound for an earlier night in preparation for our early start the next morning.

For our second full day, we'd decided to get out of the city and booked a Highlands tour with Rabbie's. Our tour was due to leave at 9am so we were up and out bright and early to make our way to the meeting point.

Our tour driver was Jim, and he kept us plenty entertained throughout the day with his guided commentary and accompanying playlist.

It was truly special driving along narrow, twisting roads between each stop, all lined with trees in every shade of green, yellow, brown, and red. Our first stop was for a wander through Dunkeld; strictly a city because of its having a cathedral, but probably in truth a small and quaint village on the River Tay.

Next we stopped at The Hermitage for a woodland walk leading to a waterfall. If the leaves had looked impressive from the road, they were even more marvellous to walk beneath. With the path following the river to our left, we were reminded of our forest walks in Exmoor but were glad that the Scottish weather was actually being kinder than we had expected!

Our next stop was for lunch in the town of Pitlochry, made famous by Queen Victoria who had apparently chosen to holiday there once upon a time. There wasn't much to be said for Pitlochry, but we did enjoy our second attempt at Haggis, this time with neeps (mashed turnip) and tatties (mashed potato), and a delicious whisky sauce. Jim had also suggested that we might like to try some genuine whisky ice cream for dessert, so full of haggis we wandered on to the sweet shop to give it a try.

Back on the bus, the post-food slump hit us hard but the views out of the window were getting better and better, so we resisted the urge to sleep. Our final stop was Dewar's Aberfeldy whisky distillery, but we took one extra stop en route at the Queen's View over Loch Tummel which was absolutely stunning.

On to the distillery, excitement was mounting. As we got off the bus, our senses were assaulted by the sweetness (and occasional dampness) emanating from the chimneys. We were given a tour of the premises before being given the opportunity to taste two different whiskies. Being the wimp that I am when it comes to spirits, and my throat still burning from the first dram, my second was tried as part of a whisky cocktail.

The journey back to Edinburgh was spent napping with intermittent singalongs to The Proclaimers and Scotland's many unofficial National Anthems. Once back in the city we headed back to our apartment for a night of oven-cooked pizza, beers and card games with sounds from Idlewild (who by some unimaginable miracle, we'd actually forgotten about until this point).

Our final morning arrived all too soon. Check-out was at half 10 and our train was at half 12 so having checked out and left our luggage, we took a fairly short circular walk to find a couple more points of interest before bidding farewell to the city.

Unashamed Instagram lover, I've seen endless photos of Circus Lane and have become a huge fan of mews since living in London, so obviously I had to go and find it. It looked gorgeous in the sunshine and was a beautifully peaceful spot.

From here we then made our way back to Prince's Street to investigate 'the toilet of Edinburgh' (one of Jim's many stories of the city) and for a different view of the castle before circling back to gather our bags and meet our taxi.

The train journey home ran even smoother than the outbound journey had done, and we sat on the other side so got a closer view of the sea and various stops through the window. It's been a treat to get away for a few days. Hoping we've breathed in enough Scottish air to last us at least a few days back in the Big Smoke..

Staycation Summer

One week in, and the summer holiday already feels like a lifetime ago. I've settled quickly into new routine and am finding lots to feel positive about at the start of a new academic year.

Moving house this summer, time and money were not on our side but the move was an adventure itself and kept us plenty busy. Instead of going away this year, we found entertainment in the Great British sunshine (and rain), and I, of course, went on lots of exploratory wanders.

Several of my days were spent wandering the Thames Path both alone, and in a more sociable manner. I found lovely pubs, walked along the shore, admired many a bridge and garden, and discovered the London Heliport (great excitement) as well as a few quieter spots for sitting and reading.

After all the glorious sunshine at the start of the holidays, of course the heavens opened as we made our way home for a long weekend. Still we managed to enjoy a day of board games and endless cups of tea, a coastal walk and picnic on the beach just before the rain came again, and a game or two of Boule in the garden before we were off to Norwich where the sun returned in all its glory. In Norwich, we spent an evening with Lorna and James enjoying good food and good drink, then headed to the Norfolk Broads for an afternoon revelling in nostalgia and the slowest pace of life as we pootled along on a day boat.

After our Kent Coast experiences, we thought we'd try Dorset for a beach day instead and had a magical day in Tyneham Valley where we wandered around a village abandoned in World War II, and walked down to a relatively hidden, and totally beautiful bay where we then spent the day snoozing, reading, picnic-ing, and splashing in the sea.

I last (and first) visited Kew Gardens for my birthday a couple of years ago. That was in the Spring, and I always said I'd like to go back for a different season. Admittedly the best of the summer had passed by the time Jess and I arrived this time, but it was great to see the Temperate House now it's reopened, and I absolutely loved the sense of escapism in the Kitchen Garden.

With the final week of the holidays upon us, Steven and I decided to spend a couple of days away in Rye. Like with Kew, I visited a couple of years ago so it was nice to return with a slightly different agenda. The sun shone for us this time, and we had a lovely walk through fields of sheep to Camber Castle before enjoying an evening of beer and burgers. The next morning we awoke to torrential rain, but decided not to let it deter and made for Hastings where, by the time we arrived, the rain had subdued, and we had fun exploring the Old Town and the castle there.

Last weekend I headed to Bath for the first time in far too long where myself, Nic, Jess and Sam ventured to Cheddar Gorge for walking and catching up (between gasps for breath as we heaved our way up sheer hillside).

When September comes, it's always a time for new beginnings, and so far I'm really enjoying a new home, new routine, and meeting lots of new people. Bring on the PSLs, falling leaves and cosy, candle-lit evenings. A jam packed summer has definitely left me very ready to embrace the Autumn!

Drawn to the water

Yesterday we officially made the move South of the river. Despite my protestations and love for the North, a new job calls for a new location.

The last two days have been spent ferrying a surprising number of boxes back and forth between Seven Sisters and Southfields and today I found myself in a pre-pay day lull so decided to do some exploring of the local area.

When I met Steven, Southfields was his stomping ground, and his family are still here, so the area's (especially the dog friendly parts) not all that unfamiliar but I don't need an excuse for a wander, and I wanted to familiarise myself as a local!

Productivity consisted of a drop-in at the gym to enquire about membership, and cashing a couple of cheques that have been knocking about in my purse since my birthday (yippee for summer holidays and my bank a mere 13 minute walk away) then I deviated when I saw signs for 'Riverside Walk'..

Before I knew it, the River Wandle met The Thames and I was wandering along the Thames Path. I'm so excited to be so close to water and birdlife, and a small escape from the hustle and bustle that London can otherwise bring. Once on the path, my headphones were off and I appreciated the peace and quiet, and occasional honk from a Canada Goose. Despite persistent cloud cover and fairly strong winds, I followed the path all the way up (or maybe down?) to Putney, resting occasionally along the way to look over the water.

Back home, I popped into the yoga studio that I'd spotted earlier from my bedroom window (so much excitement!) to grab a class schedule, then made my way back to the sofa with a cup of tea where I sit now to write.

There are many things to do and places to see that have been on my South London list for a while. I can't wait to get ticking them off!

2000 Trees

'You headed to 12 trees?', asks our cab driver who's picking us up from Cheltenham Station. 'Apparently there are 2000. But I don't think we'll count.', we reply. Yesterday was our first time at 2000 Trees, and we loved every minute of it!

Jess and I last attended a festival together in 2013 when we went with Olive to Latitude. So this summer, we decided it was about time we did another festival, and when a few of our favourite bands and artists appeared on the lineup for 2000 Trees, we decided it was the one for us.

Next to no queue as we arrived, we were armed with our wristbands and straight through. The festival site was fairly small, which was nice as it meant that we easily found our way around, and headed straight to see The Xcerts who were performing a forest session.

If we do go back (which I hope we will), we'll definitely go better prepared. Although one benefit of going to a festival for just a day is that you can pack light, we did agree that we could have done with something to sit on. Sitting on the forest floor, we did suffer from numb bums, and camping chair envy, but the set from Murray and Jordan got us off to a good start. It all felt particularly forest-camping-esque when Murray unplugged his guitar and came out to the centre of the crowd to play the last song.

Lunch excites me at the best of times, but having seen what was on offer as we'd entered, we were especially excited for this lunch. I opted for a 'hot and crispy' scotch egg on sweet potato fries, and Jess found some gluten free pasta with a smoky cheese sauce. We sat by the Neu Stage to eat, where Asylums were playing a set. Enjoyed our food, and a spot of people watching (always good value at a music festival) before moving on to the Main Stage for Beans on Toast (the artist, not more food.)

His music was great, messages powerful, and he had the crowd laughing which is always fun. After the set, we made our way to The Axiom tent for Bloody Knees. A first for both of us, we loved their energy and found ourselves singing along despite having only discovered them the night before on a Spotify playlist.

Another forest session from Enter Shikari followed, but with The Xcerts playing the main stage only 5 minutes after the forest set ended, we had to dash. After what felt like endless tuning in the forest, we only managed to catch a couple of songs from Rou before heading back to the main stage. It's been really interesting to see The Xcerts play so many different venues. For me, a stage at a festival was the biggest, and their set did not disappoint. I think Murray's dance moves may have just tipped it for my favourite moment of the day.

Our first clash of the day struck, as back in the forest, Séan McGowan was playing. Not wanting to miss his only set of the day, we didn't stay for all of The Xcerts, and headed back to the trees.

Half our day came around all too quickly, and it was time again for some food. Back at the Main Stage via gluten free mini pancakes for Jess, we enjoyed most of Basement's set, some of it from the queue for Pad Thai (my first since Thailand, and it did not disappoint). Navigating crowds on our way then to The Cave stage where Skinny Lister were already in full swing was a little hairy, but we made it to a spot right outside the tent in the evening sun with all food in tact. Just enough time for digestion, we were back up and dancing again, trying to avoid the bare-chested man flailing around next to us in the stream of Coca Cola, beer, and goodness knows what else that his friends were spraying him with.. sticky.

Our final set of the day was quite the contrast to the madness of Skinny Lister. We were back in the forest where we'd begun our day for Ben Marwood's acoustic set. Another artist with an excellent sense of humour (it really does go a long way), we ended the day with plenty of laughs.

I didn't think I'd ever find a festival in the UK that suited me so well, but we really did have the most amazing day at 2000 Trees. The lineup was incredible, the sets were fantastic, the site is so convenient, the food was delicious, and everyone (and I really do mean everyone) was so so  friendly which made for the best atmosphere. It was a Saturday so well spent, and I definitely hope that we'll return!